DLSS 5 On

what a strange place to clip a sling

Final Skibidi

Yeah, but I’d definitely go with the III over the II. Mid-length gas system instead of carbine-length, and the handguard is free-floated. So softer shooting and better inherent accuracy. Look for the best price on gun.deals

Also, I think it’d be cool if the gun people on here like you and me could figure out some budget build that we could sticky in the comm. I was thinking a complete upper (upper, barrel, gas system, and handguard), a bolt carrier group, an acceptable cheap lower, a decent lower parts kit with a trigger that isn’t terrible. And then maybe like some upgrades, like I like to put BCM BCG (because I really don’t want the bolt to break) and LaRue MBT-2S trigger in everything.

I mean that would get someone a better rifle for the money then buying a M&P Sport III, or allow them to build a just-as-capable rifle for cheaper, right?

No worries, thanks for the advice. And I intend this thread to be for the sake of potential new gun owners looking for a first AR-15, so any thoughts and advice are welcome.

The type 56 is shorter yet has a longer barrel, 16.3" vs the car-15 10.5", and also 7.62x39 burns all its powder in about 12 inches of barrel whereas 5.56 needs at least 20. Probably why it’s got a big flash hider on the muzzle.

It’s something I’m interested but don’t really know anything about. A friendly old guy at the range gave me some loads that I have written down somewhere. Will you use a book for load recipes?

carnservative

My name is Yoshikage Kira. I’m 33 years old. My house is in the northeast section of Morioh, where all the villas are, and I am not married. I work as an employee for the Kame Yu department stores, and I get home every day by 8 PM at the latest. I don’t smoke, but I occasionally drink. I’m in bed by 11 PM, and make sure I get eight hours of sleep, no matter what. After having a glass of warm milk and doing about twenty minutes of stretches before going to bed, I usually have no problems sleeping until morning. Just like a baby, I wake up without any fatigue or stress in the morning. I was told there were no issues at my last check-up. I’m trying to explain that I’m a person who wishes to live a very quiet life. I take care not to trouble myself with any enemies, like winning and losing, that would cause me to lose sleep at night. That is how I deal with society, and I know that is what brings me happiness. Although, if I were to fight I wouldn’t lose to anyone.

GITS rules

My dream revolver is a Manurhin

I’ve had quality control issues with Smith and Wesson before, btw. I had to send a used revolver to their factory to get fixed, but to be fair, they did fix it for free and send it back in less than 60 days. The other issue was just a magazine follower installed backwards, not that big a deal. I’ve also seen somebody with an older model S&W M&P Sport rifle have issues but he got them worked out, idk what the issue ended up being.

Tools wise, flat punches are nice.

I just use Break Free CLP to clean. Mostly just wipe down the bolt carrier group and inside the upper receiver.

Per the School of the American Rifle, you can make a lifetime supply of lube with a mix of synthetic grease and synthetic motor oil such that it’s about as viscous as honey, but any gun oil is fine, you’ll just have to reapply more often than the sticky mix.

I don’t clean the barrel that much because I’m lazy but a segmented cleaning rod is fine. Precision shooters often say, if anything, you should concentrate on cleaning the part of the chamber where the bullet leaves the case mouth. There’s a carbon ring that forms there that can eventually restrict the bore diameter, squeezing the bullet and thus harming accuracy. With just a segment of a cleaning rod handle and a bore brush chamber brush you can clean out that carbon ring.

You’ll also want Blue Loctite or some equivalent for your optic mount screws. Degrease the screws first and let the threadlocker cure 24 hours before shooting. The FAT Wrench torque screwdriver is also nice for that.

If you can be patient this Andro Corp goes on sale often for $400. Really good except the trigger. But hey, perfect excuse to get the excellent LaRue MBT-2S trigger.

https://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-slx-1-6x24mm-sfp-rifle-scope-gen-4-illuminated-acss-nova-fiber-wire-reticle an LPVO is nice for versatility and accuracy at longer ranges. This one is really good for the price.

With this optic, trigger, and rifle I think you’ve got the best bang for your buck.

these are nicer than the equivalent smith and wesson models, imo

I need a DMCA

I prefer an AK to an SKS. They shoot softer in my experience. If you can get a Polish one (WBP or FB Radom) or Zastava , that’s what I like AK-wise. I used to be a “get an AR if you’re serious” guy, but now I think follow your joy.

There’s anecdotes of troops saying the 7.62x39 AKs had better stopping power than their 5.56 rifles. However, in my experience if you want better accuracy, modularity, a bit more customization ergo-wise, go for an AR-15. I’m not a combat guy but AR’s are better suited for practical shooting competitions than AKs, the AKs struggle against distant small targets. My budget (well I’ve been upgrading it) AR with the right ammo can get just about 1-MOA groups, while my AKs are like 6 MOA. I’ve seen better AK accuracy but it’s not something you can just expect from any AK.

You could get a stock imported AK for a thousand bucks and enjoy it, or for about that much money you could build a pretty great AR with a BCM upper and bolt carrier group, a nice trigger like a LaRue MBT2S, a good budget LPVO like a Primary Arms 1-6x Nova, and whatever pistol grip and stock strikes your fancy.

For fun on a casual range day and feeling cool, I’d pick the AK. For practical concerns I’ll probably pick the AR platform.

Also, .300 Blackout AR is another option, you can get the terminal ballistics of an AK in an AR platform.

7.62 soviet is an intermediate cartridge closer to 5.56 than .308.

That helicopter looks 3d. Also wouldnt super expensive thermal image thingies see paint different? Also i think people are saying it because the damage doesn’t look the same in thermal as it does in normal vision. Also also, there’s a shadow (or really, a cooler spot on the ground because of shadow), that’d be hard to paint for thermal.