With chefs, it often seems as if there's a thin line between self-promotion and egomania. But I never realized how thin until I logged onto a certain chef's website. A face the size of a screensaver materialized as soon as I clicked on the "biography" link, and then on the "works" link (to his cookbook and his two restaurants). His visage stared out sultrily from the recipes page before the food photos kicked in. And on the "gallery" page, loaded with head shots, it became very clear what he...