I love this style – reminds me of my late teens and early twenties.
The instructions are excellent, as expected of Closet Core, and the order of construction is very clever. The gathered skirt panels are sewn to the yoke pieces first, not sewn to each other first. This makes it easy to get the gathering right up to the seams and to line up the seams between the yoke and the skirt.
I made a size 16 with the waist graded out to a size “17”.
My fabric is a cotton poplin purchased last April in Singapore. It is crisp and has good body so works well with this style.
Deeper hem
I overlocked and then turned the hem up 5 cm rather than the narrow hem recommended in the instructions.
With Josephine AND Peggy! Plus the added bonus of coordinating perfectly with my favourite boots
I like this skirt a lot!
My only disappointment is the lack of pockets. The lovely deep V of the yoke at the side seams means that pockets would be placed a bit low and I don’t like the idea of patch pockets on this style
Closet Core Crew Josephine set top
I made a top from the same fabric so I would have a matching set.
This is the top part of the Josephine set.
It is also a size 16 with the only modification being 8 cm removed from the straps. Yes 8 cm! That’s seemed a lot but it was what I needed for the top to sit where I wanted it to without the straps pulling off my shoulders. I know I am short waisted but it still surprised me.
It’s cropped but, with the high waist of Zelda, there is little opportunity to see anything, except with extreme movements like taking off my Peggy jacket.
Tiniest bit of midriff briefly on show. The late afternoon sun shining through my lined Peggy jacket also shows how light weight it is. Love this jacket.
I added black buttons to the back tab and sewed them on with yellow thread for some extra contrast.
The “black” lines in the print are actually deep inky navy but I didn’t have 3 appropriately sized buttons in that colour in the stash so black it was. Not that it matters, just interesting that the colours in the print were not simple.
I like the set with chunky black sandals too
And, continuing in the black accessory theme, I added a black label.
Sewing – how much do I love it?! So much joy! Starting with the fabric to choosing the pattern through to the actual sewing and then pulling it together into an outfit.
It doesn’t always happen but it is SO good when it all works out.
A small part of a fabulous fabric store in Milan, responsible for some of my fabric acquisitions this year
I’m pleased with my focus on stash reduction. A monthly blog post keeping me accountable has helped.
More went out of the stash (157 m) than came in (90 m). That’s almost 70 m less in the stash than at the beginning of the year.
More below the line than above!
Almost 70 m out of the stash makes me happy! I probably have at least half a kilometer in fabric meterage so as much as 10% reduction is to be celebrated.
The other good thing is that half of the new pieces of fabric I purchased or were gifted this year have already been sewn. That’s means I’m making more intentional purchases. Another good result.
I still have a lot of fabric in stash. My stash is generally sorted and stored by colour and there are several drawers (navy, yellow, perhaps also red – I’m looking at you!) that are still too full to easily see what’s in them.
My stash is spread across at least 9 more drawers like these ones…and some of them almost stuffed as full as these
I need another year of considered purchase – no more navy, or yellow – and lots of sewing of navy and yellow.
Selfless sewing
I did a lot of sewing this year – 49 items. Lucky I love it.
I feel a bit guilty about sewing so much – it seems like fast fashion on another level – but I have had some changes in weight so previous sewn garments no longer fit. And it was not all for me.
A third of my sewing this year was for others. Or, only two thirds of my sewing was garments for me. That’s a stat that surprised me. It is usually higher.
Pattern companies used
This year the combinations of regular Closet Core patterns and patterns from my Crew subscription just squeaked past Burda as the most used patterns. Then in third and fourth place was Vogue and Fibre mood. I’m quite taken with Fibre mood.
Most successful sewing
This one is tricky to nail. I’ve been happy which most of the items sewn this year.
A surprising success was Paco Peralta’s wide legged pants using Vogue 1619. I’ve worn these much more than I expected. Yes, they are ridiculously wide, but there is something deeply appealing about them.
A basic Burda magazine shirt pattern, BurdaStyle 04/2010 #128, made several excellent shirts fom Rory and Chris, with my favourite being this lemon one.
The doozies
There have been several.
Not even a scarf can save it
The worst was sewn at the beginning of the year. This is Butterick 6991. As sewn by me it has many issues.
The sizing is wrong
I swapped out a long centre front concealed zip to a short exposed one and unintentionally gave it rugby top vibes
I lost one of the appealing style features by combining the two skirt panels into one
I interfaced the bodice to stabilise the weave but not the skirt and then used a light purple lining for both of them instead of white like the interfacing. This made the skirt slightly darker in colour
The sleeves are correct for the era but either too long or not long enough to look good on me
Not worn and not blogged. I still have it though. I am thinking it could be repurposed into a skirt.
Another not worn and not blogged garment was a top made from BurdaStyle 02/2024 #104 for Felicity in a remnant as a trial.
She didn’t like how it sat on her even after adjusting the fit to work well and the fabric wasn’t right. Not a wearable toile. And not a pattern she wants repeated. It went directly to the donation pile.
Another dress that was not so much unsuccessful but more that I don’t love it was a trial of an old pattern, Vogue 1360, and a good use of fabric that had been in the stash too long. It might look okay in the photos but it’s not a dress I enjoy wearing – the colours and print no longer spark joy. Trumpet sleeves with fabric that is white on the wrong side are also irritating.
Plans for 2026
Keep using the stash.
I have lots of lovely fabrics. No need to buy more unless I really really need to. Or one of the other self imposed rules like being on holidays or having access to something very very special.
Keep trying Fibre mood patterns and different styles
Nothing to lose but fabric from the stash and some of my time. But it’s “me time” doing something I love so nothing really to lose.
Make an evening dress
I have a black tie event at the end of January. This one will need to happen soon.
It’s a State Dinner (fancy!) in the gardens of Government House (in a marquee perhaps? So could be hot). Bonus points if I use stash fabrics.
Happy New Year!
Thanks again for reading and commenting, and heres to a happy new year for all.
Immediately upon completing the dress I didn’t love it. I even included that view in my monthly statistics post about this project and suggested I would never wear it for Christmas, or ever.
Then it spent a few weeks in the magic wardrobe, I pulled it out and wore it on a hot day after Christmas Day and I changed my mind ….
It’s definitely wearable!
It’s probably not quite the right fabric for the style. The cotton gingham is lightweight but still seems to have a bit too much body and not quite enough drape for this design.
This is Fibre mood’s Suvi dress from issue 34 in a size L. It’s an interesting pattern but tracing it off almost broke me – huge pattern pieces and on multiple sheets!
The bodice of both the front and back pattern pieces are curved asymmetrically to add the extra fabric to fold into the tie. The gingham really shows this off.
The front bodice is almost on the bias.
The back not quite so much.
The back also has a centre back seam with some shaping. I decided the left and right backs were too different from each other to be able to pattern match when I cut them out. So I don’t even try.
I should have tried. It makes me sad that it’s almost but not quite right.
Next time, if there is a next time and if it’s with a patterned fabric, I’ll cut the back out without the CB seam and move the walking slit to one of the sides. I believe it would work – a bit more asymmetry wouldn’t go amiss with this style.
Front bodice gathering needed to fit back bodice
Either the fabric stretched out a lot on the bias or I traced it poorly but the neck was larger than the facing and one of the side seams need to have the front gathered to fit onto the back. Not that any of this matters once it done but sort of annoying.
The tie looks better as a tie when worn but so cute as a bow!
Lucky that this dress has some cute features or it would not even had made it to the magic wardrobe for its second chance!
I know I know. December isn’t over yet. But I’m unlikely to sew more before Christmas Day, so sewing December is probably done. Those days between Christmas and New Year are another time period all together.
So, what happened in the pre Christmas part of December?
There were modest additions to the stash and some sewing. It’s been a good end to the year! Not everything sewn was a winner though.
Fibre mood Suvi dress
This one is not a winner..
Might look okay on a hanger. Not so good on
At least this project removed gingham from the stash which was bought this year for a Christmas dress. Fabric being used in the year it was purchased and for the reason it was purchased is a plus! But there is still a problem.
I don’t love the dress. I may not wear it on Christmas day or any day … It’s not the pattern’s fault though. It was a poor choice of fabric for this style. The cotton gingham is lightweight but still has too much body and not enough drape for this design.
Gift aprons
These were more successful.
I made four aprons from Jocelyn Proust furnishing cotton twill purchased and sewn this month.
Three were made using Tessuti’s free wrap style apron pattern and one as a copy of a standard style apron we already have in the house and wear all the time.
They were gifts for the great people in my team at work.
They loved them! So much so they put them on at work!
The standard style apron was perfect to use to wrap a boxed panforte made by Chris which was the other part of the gift (Chris is the He Cooks part of the blog name). Love it when the blog name (and label in this case!) plays out in real life!
Closet Core Crew Celia dress
I’m hoping this is a winner. Early days yet.
This pattern is a fabric hog but luckily I have just the right amount of a drapy fabric in stash thanks to a friend’s sister’s mother-in-law’s destashing.
Another pleasing thing about this fabric is that it has 70’s vibes. It may even be from the 70’s. I’m predicting an excellent match of fabric to the pattern.
Other fabric bought
I went to Spotlight to buy thread and a zip for the Celia dress and …. of course I did …. came home with fabric.
The first piece has already been turned into a sundress. It’s sort of cheat sewing when the fabric is already shirred.
Amount: 1.2 m by 140 cm. I really only needed 80 cm, so now I have more remnants.
Composition:
Price: $18 per metre on sale. Less than $22 for a dress. Bargain!
The second piece was bought for a shirt for He who Cooks.
I could not resist. There was only enough left on the roll for a short sleeved shirt so we’ll see if he approves.
Radishes!
Amount: 2.4m by 112 cm
Composition: cotton poplin
Price: $11 per m. Also a bargain!
The numbers
4 m of gingham left the stash as a Fibre Mood dress
4.9 m of cotton twill entered and then exited as aprons
5.6 m of mystery silky fabric from stash cut out for a Closet Core Crew Celia dress
1.2 m of preshirred cotton entered and and then exited as a dress
2.4 m of a shirt weight cotton came to live in my stash.
Reflecting on my first year of stash management
How did I do?
Well I’m pleased – more was sewn than came into the stash. I’ll do a bit more analysis and perhaps include it in a year in review post. But the bottom line is that I did a lot of sewing this year. Lucky I love it!
This dress was truly the definition of frosting – fun sewing that was almost completely unnecessary and certainly indulgent!
I made a back up dress for Frocktails in case it was cold. Like, as if I don’t have any other party dresses to wear. It has been an unusually cool spring so this is not quite as silly as it sounds. Just indulgent!
Yes I added the label, even though it was the backup dress!
I didn’t end up wearing it for Frocktails but I did wear it to another event instead of the more summery frock I’d made for that second event. So my plan paid off! Although I am still waiting to wear the more summery frock…
My frock and I with some of the great people I work with
The pattern is Vogue 8630 and I made the long sleeved version of it
I used fabric from the stash (since January 2019 – pre COVID!). It’s a polyester spandex “famous designer” brocade from EOS and was a delight to sew. It pressed beautifully! Ever so faint aroma of rubber though, speaking to its fibre content.
I made a size 20 and the fit is quite good. The only thing I should’ve changed was to petite the bodice. The waist seam wants to sit lower than my actual waist and as a consequence there’s a bit of unnecessary blousing.
The waist seam with its perfectly centred medallion!
I’m short waisted and I always petite the bodice so not sure what happened when I was cutting out the fabric. Possibly distracted by pattern matching. Which turned out so well. Too well to redo the waist seam and lose that beautiful matching!
Centre back. Also with pattern matching!
The pattern matching is good through the curved centre back seam too.
I love the asymmetrical collar. I didn’t interface my fabric because it felt like it had enough body without it.
The busy fabric doesn’t really show the collar to its full glory. But believe me – it’s glorious!
The collar is wide enough that the zip does not need to interrupt it through the centre back for the dress to still be easy to get into.
Which made for a near perfect invisible zip insertion – with the zip pull almost hidden by the collar, as you can see above.
The design is fully lined. Even the sleeves. Delightful to wear. I used a stretch lining
The more summery dress I made for this event and did not wear was the same pattern but without sleeves and with a fuller skirt.
I haven’t worn it yet. It does look better ironed, and on me than it does on the hanger!
It’s a mid weight woven cotton – probably for soft furnishing rather than garment sewing – that I acquired from a charity shop this year in Port Elliott, a seaside holiday town. I made a tulle petticoat to wear under it and “floof” out the skirt. But have not yet had the right occasion with the right weather to wear it.
I really like the blue dress but I’m in two minds about whether it’s a bit costumey. No doubt about the yellow one – it’s definitely vintage costumey!
With my lovely colleague, Jay, in his marvellous aubergine suit
Beautiful jacquard fabric though and my favourite colour!
November has been a slower sewing month than other months this year. Of the four garments I’ve cut out, only two have been fully completed.
No fabric acquisition though! That’s a win for stash reduction! Which is what this monthly series is all about.
What I sewed
Another Peggy jacket
Flush with the success of my first Peggy jacket I cut out another one exactly the same. This version is in ivory linen lurex blend – the same fabric I used for the skirt I made last month (yes I now have a suit!)
I lined it with an IKEA sheet. It’s a cotton lyocell blend with an excellent soft hand and the perfect off white colour.
Not much else to say – this is a great pattern with great instructions that leads to great results.
It’s incomplete because I haven’t yet decided on buttons. I think I need them but He who Cooks is very taken with its current simplicity.
We will see..
Christmas shirts
I’ve cut out and finished both Felicity’s and Rory’s shirts made from novelty fabric bought this September. Which is just in time, since Christmas is upon us!
Felicity’s 2025 Christmas shirt
Felicity’s was made with a pattern I used for her 9 years ago (!) for another novelty print cotton – Burda 06/2013 #120 in a size 40 with a FBA. She still has this shirt and wore it again recently so we both knew the fit was still good. The pattern is for a shirt dress but you all know how easy it it to turn that into a shirt!
I had fun with labels. Because why not?
I had fun with labels for Rory’s shirt too.
Rory’s shirt is also based on a TNT, but this time from last year – Burda 07/2010 #128 in a size 52 with the neck band height reduced by 5 mm, no pocket and short sleeves.
Novelty fabric and shirt sewing. Great combination! Satisfying details, including pattern matching across the front.
Rory’s 2025 Christmas shirt
Baby clothes
My dear friend M is some going to be Nana M so of course I am making a hand sewn gift for the new baby!
How old must that pattern be? Look how yellow the instructions are! It’s definitely out of print – that number brings up a current Gertie dress pattern and other OOP children’s patterns. But the Lincraft stamp dates it to less than 50 years ago.
I don’t recall a lot about it but I’ve previously used it – it’s partially cut out and the middle size traced out.
I’ve used an Indian cotton left over from another project (the baby and I will have matching outfits!). The fabric is beautifully soft and will be a lovely and cool garment for a baby to wear in the hot Adelaide summer.
The numbers
The ivory jacket used 2.0 m of linen and 1.5 m of lining.
Felicity’s shirt used 1.6 m of a novelty cotton woven.
Rory’s shirt used 2.4 m of novelty cotton. There is only a 40 cm remnant left so I’m calling that reduction of the fabric stash by the full 2.8 m purchased.
The baby garment used 1 m of a woven cotton.
All up this month another 8.9 m left the stash. Go me!
My lovely date and I accessorised and ready to go to Frocktails!
Like all good projects, this one started with the shoes.
Then the fabric.
After that it was just a matter of picking a pattern to showcase the best features of the fabric and work with those shoes!
Fibremood’s Mirri ticked the boxes! The trial version confirmed it was the one.
The fabric was a sample remnant from Linton Tweeds factory outlet shop bought whilst on holiday.
I had two 1 metre pieces. The main fabric was a cotton lurex blue/silver/white self striped weave with a red, white and navy motif down the middle, parallel to the selvedge and another wider red, white and navy stripe closer to the selvedge.
It was fabulous fabric but sort of difficult to know what to do with it to incorporate its unique qualities.
With my dear friend M at Frocktails. Thanks to @adelaidesewcialclub for hosting and @bash_image for the photo
That’s why the Mirri dress was a great solution. I could use the thinner strip down the centre front and back (omitting the seam but retaining the effect) and the thicker selvedge strips on the sleeves (omitting the cuffs but getting the same effect). Luckily all the pattern pieces worked for this on my two 1 metre lengths!
With Hayley and Rhianneat Froctails. Thanks to @adelaidesewcialclub for hosting and @bash_image for the photo
A dress made from such special fabric needs to be lined. And I had the perfect lining fabric in stash.
Again this was a spectacular fabric that was difficult to find the right project for. A silk twill that looked like a knitted jumper? Why would that print be good as a light weight top? But lining for a dress? Couldn’t be more perfect.
This was deadstock Marc Jacob’s fabric from The Fabric Store, purchased in 2020. And I could not be happier with how well it works as lining for this dress!
There were lots of door prizes. I won a prize! A voucher for A0 pdf printing from Plan Make Do. Although it may be a while before I can use it because their social media says they’re taking a break and back in 2026.
Look at all those wonderful sewists! Thanks again to @adelaidesewcialclub and to @bash_image for the photo
So happy to update the dress after the event with the label from the goodie bag!
Who knew that I’d wait this long before I made and wore something with an handkerchief hem?
I know I don’t look super thrilled in the image below, but I am pleased!
This pattern is particularly lovely. It’s not just a circle skirt squared off. The panels still have angles so there’s a lovely stripe chevron effect on all of the seams if you use a striped fabric. Like I did.
This is Burda 08/2024 #118 in a size 46. The fabric is a polyester georgette with a bit of a seersucker feel from a previous Adelaide sewists fabric swap – thanks Lucy!
Of course I included the pockets.
I made them with lining on the outer side facing the skirt so that they wouldn’t be obvious – the striped fabric is sheer. I also made them wider at the top and extended them to be sewn in with the waistband – for stability.
The lining is my skin tone, and not a long as the skirt because of fabric meterage restrictions. But it’s fine. The lining is about midway between thigh and knee.
I love this skirt, even though it isn’t particularly flattering for my body shape.
It is so much fun to wear! Look how much fabric is in it!
Lots of sewing this month and no additions to the stash! And some of the sewing has also already made it to the blog. Well done me!
What I sewed
Crew Peggy jacket
This one has been blogged – you can read all about it here.
A total of 3.3 m released from the stash:
1.8 m of cotton/nylon/lurex blend boucle
0.8 m acetate lining for sleeves
0.7 m cotton lining for body
Handkerchief hem skirt
This was a fun project sewn on a bit of a whim and may never be well integrated into the wardrobe. I have some plans for coordinating tops. It’s not classically “flattering” on my body shape. Fun though. I can’t believe I’m almost 60 and never had a handkerchief hem.
The pattern is Burda 08/2024 #118. The fabric is a polyester georgette with a bit of a seersucker feel from a previous Adelaide sewists fabric swap – thanks Lucy!
It’s sheer – so I added a short lining.
This one released 4.4 m from stash – 3 m of the outer fabric plus 1.4 m lining
Ivory linen lurex skirt
This is a simple basic made slightly more interesting with patch pockets, topstitching and sparkly linen. I’ve needed something to go with this top ever since I made it last year. Also made on a whim. Hmm. What is it about red fabrics and sewing on a whim?
The pattern is Burda 10/2018 #123. I’ve made it previously without the pockets or those interesting side buttoned slits. One day I might even make it fully as drafted.
This released a total of 2.9 m from the stash:
1 m linen
0.5 m mid weight cotton for yoke and pocket lining
1.4 m cotton batiste for skirt lining ( it was narrow)
I have more than enough of the sparkly linen left to make a jacket. Another Peggy? Very tempted.
Yellow embroidered cotton top
I planned to make a top out of this pattern to wear with the handkerchief skirt. It’s Burda 08/2024 #105 and it’s also paired with the skirt in the magazine so it should work. I wanted to try the pattern out first before cutting into the coordinating fabric, however, because the gusset on the armscye seemed an odd construction detail. Not obvious on the line drawing, but it’s piece 24 in the pattern piece layout.
So I used a disappointingly embroidered cotton bought as a souvenir in Singapore for a trial version. Disappointing because the embroidery is not on grain. Pretty though. Perfect for a trial garment!
The quick trial version was made without the neck insert or centre front seam. I like it! It’s longer than I wanted for the handkerchief skirt. But that’s an easy fix.
Another 1.4 m out of the stash
Then I made the “real” version from an embroidered organza from stash – another souvenir fabric. This was from Spain and has been in the stash since at least 2019. I underlined it with an ivory tencel cotton blend sheet from IKEA.
It was an interesting sewing experience but I’m a bit unexcited by the top. Perhaps it just needs more time.
Another 3 m released from stash – 1.5m each of the embroidered organza and the underlining.
Floofy petticoat
The final sewing project was a tulle petticoat to wear under a retro style dress. I had fully intended to purchase one and had an excellent recommendation for an online vendor from a fellow Adelaide sewist but I couldn’t get one in my size or preferred colour in time. So I did what every sewist does – went to fabric store and bought tulle net and made my own.
I’m not counting this as fabric into the stash and then out again because it was cut out within a hour of purchase. But if I was, it was 2 m. I also used 6 m of brioderie anglaise pregathered trim from stash on the hem. Why did I have 6 m of this trim in the stash? Cannot remember – but it was fortunate!
Last words
15 m released from stash. Since January I’ve now reduced the stash by almost 40 m! I’m impressed with myself!
This was the first Fibre mood pattern I have ever made. And I loved it. I was hooked.
This dress was a trial of the pattern. I used IKEA canvas leftover from making a beach bag. Yes the beach bag is also in all these photos. Couldn’t stop myself!
Fabric challenges meant some of the pieces needed to be cut on the cross grain to fit the pattern on the remnant I had.
This made it much more interesting than expected.
But I love how it turned out.
The pockets are very generous.
I was a bit concerned that although the pockets were wide they would not be deep enough and things would fall out. They don’t!
This trial was a success!
I cut out the precious fabric.
But Mirri dress #2 will need to be another post because it’s for Frocktails. I don’t yet have photos of me wearing it but I am sure I will get great photos of it at Frocktails to use for the blog!
Peggy and Josephine – two excellent patterns from my Closet Core Crew subscription this year!
This jacket was such joy to sew. Pretty fabrics, great drafting and excellent instructions.
The Peggy jacket is part of the Decades crew subscription this year and it is from last month. If you can access the pattern, I highly recommend it!
I made View B (button front and bracelet length sleeves) in a straight size 16.
I was originally intending to make the pattern in this windowpane boucle from stash. This was my first ever online fabric purchase back in 2012 (thanks Gorgeous Fabrics for making that so easy!) and I intended to turn it into a Chanel-style jacket. It has been many imaginary garments since then and now, with the Peggy pattern in my hands it seemed like its time had finally come. But Felicity made some very complimentary remarks about the windowpane boucle and her desire that it be turned into a garment for her, so, back into the stash it has gone.
The fabric I then selected was originally from The Fabric Store and is Tory Burch deadstock. It’s a cotton, nylon, lurex blend and a long term stash dweller- this piece was leftover from a dress/pinafore made for Felicity back in 2019.
The main lining of the body of the jacket is a cotton sateen from Spotlight. This was supposed to be a shirt from Chris. I might have enough left? I might also have enough for a top for me. Sewing plans are fluid! The sleeves are lined in a standard acetate lining fabric.
The selvedge was so pretty. I couldn’t resist and added it as trim!
I added the selvedge after finishing the pockets – the trim was attached afterwards and wrapped to the back rather than being caught in the lining.
The drafting and instructions are excellent. As you expect from Closet Core patterns. What particularly impressed me was
the seperate pattern pieces for the lining, including the pocket lining
pattern pieces for interfacing the upper back, shoulders and sleeve heads
instructions to interface what you expect, like the facings, but also
the fold lines of the hems and the pockets
where the buttons and buttons holes will go on the fronts
on the armscye for those parts that weren’t already interfaced from the back and shoulders stays
It was quite a process cutting all of this out and then fusing the interfacings. But so worth it. This soft tailoring approach was perfect for my light fabric.
My only regret is that I didn’t interface all of the pockets. They are a bit saggy. I may remove them and make another interfaced set. I’ll see how much they annoy me as they are at the moment. I might also dislike them a bit because they are topstitched on rather than being hand sewn invisibly. I didn’t pay enough attention to the excellent instructions at this point in construction!
I also pinned one of them on at 90 degrees to the correct orientation, and realized this before I stitched them on! … it always pays to double check before stitching!
You can also see from the above in-progress shot that I overlocked most of the pattern pieces of my outer fabric before construction. This helped stabilize the loose weave and reduce some of the fraying that can happen though normal handling.
I’m very happy with this jacket. Using this sparkly olive green fabric was the right choice.
Lovely clean mirror at the Adelaide Town Hall
This colour already works with other clothes in my wardrobe for the fancy rich lady look above (perfect for attending the last Adelaide Symphony Orchestra concert), and it can be slightly less fancy with a denim skirt (another great Closet Core Crew pairing – Peggy plus Slate).
This month I’ve finished two frocks for Frocktails, from stash (yay!), and cut out another one, finished the top I’m making for a colleague’s daughter, trialled a pattern for a top for my own daughter and prepped for Christmas by adding Christmas themed fabrics to the stash.
#SpoilerAlert: I’ve sewed quite a bit but the stash is still not smaller.
Frocktails
I finished my Fibremood Mirri dress using precious stash fabrics and I love it. It’s for Frocktails in October so no modelled photos yet.
In a fit of sewing madness I cut out an alternative dress – just in case it’s cold (it won’t be, Frocktails is at the end of October!)
I’ve made the long sleeved version of Vogue 8630 out of a fabric that’s been in the stash since January 2019.
The pattern was a gift from a lovely sewing friend after she rationalised her extensive pattern collection. It’s very much in her style, as is the fabric.
The fabric is a polyester spandex “famous designer” brocade from EOS and it’s been a delight to sew. Presses beautifully! Ever so faint aroma of rubber though, speaking to its fibre content.
This frock is finished. I really like it!
I’m also dreaming of a different version with a fuller skirt. And I’ve cut it out from stash fabric. There’s going to be a massive basket of flowers taking up most of the bodice. Hope it works!
Cropped denim polo top
This top is finished. Woohoo!
I’d been commissioned to make a top for Caitlin – the teenage daughter of Mel, one of my lovely work colleagues. Mel is making me a necklace. It’s a reciprocal craft thing.
It seemed fitting that I wore the bracelets she made whilst making the top.
Caitlin’s top is inspired by one she saw in a market – an oversized two tone cropped denim top with a polo collar and long shirt sleeves.
I used Fibremood’s Liberty jump suit as a starting point.
I made a toile in calico and sent it home with Mel for Caitlin to try on. Apparently it was perfect!
The cuff plackets were certainly a lot better in the toile than the real thing. All to do with paying attention to the instructions about seam allowances and placement… nothing to do with the pattern.
Top stitching always makes things better (even when you don’t notice the stray thread before you take the photo!)
Other fun details included a KATM label on the pocket and a frayed unfinished bottom edge, as specifically requested by Caitlin.
Hope she likes it!
A top for Felicity
Felicity is in need of office work clothes and has selected several Burda patterns for this purpose. The first one I’m trialing is a simple top #104 from the 02/2024 issue.
The trial version is in a remnant of cotton poplin that is probably a bit robust for the design. I have a shirt made out of this fabric. I love it! And cutting out the leftover fabric made me realise I had not yet blogged about it. So I did! Read all about it here.
Auditioning buttons for my shirt. No buttons needed for Felicity’s top
My leftovers were only 1.5 metres of 115 cm wide fabric so I had to cut out the sleeve differently to Burda instructions.
This top wasn’t a success – something about the combination of both fabric and style makes Felicity feel this top would be more suitable for someone older than her. The back zip is also an inconvenient feature.
New fabrics now living in my stash
I needed to buy denim for the commissioned top and Spotlight had a sale. You know what happened. I bought more than the denim I needed to buy.
Navy linen
This looks so much better in real life.
Amount: 5.6 m x 130 cm. I asked for 4 metres and it was the end of the roll with apparently 50 cm extra. Must’ve been an error in measuring it out because after prewashing I had more than the 4.5 metres I had asked for and paid for!
Price: $106 ($18.90 per metre)
Composition: Linen
Plans: Wide legged pants and a shirt dress – I have lots of fabric..
Christmas!
Christmas Prints
Amount: 2 cuts of 2.8 m x 115 cm. They shrank from the 3 m cut when I prewashed them. Prewashing is essential!
Price: $75 ($13.40 per m)
Composition: cotton woven
Plans: Christmas shirts for my adult children. It’s become a tradition..
Gingham
Amount: 4 m x 115 cm (it didn’t shrink)
Price: $57 ($14.25 per m)
Composition: cotton woven
Plans: a Christmas dress for me. Possibly Fibremood’s Muriel. I might add sleeves.
Meterage in and out
16.2 m came in and 12 m went out. Overall I’m up by 4.2 m. I need to do more sewing next month to get back on the stash reduction train!
It is very possible that this is too much information, but I can’t seem to help myself. I “need” to follow up on my last post about me-made garment longevity!
So, this post is about patterns I haven’t repeated, yet, but worn on repeat through the last few winters.
Again this is about sewing I did at least 2 years ago.
This swing coat made in 2023 is on regular rotation in cooler months.
I love the shape, and the fabric is almost perfect for corporate wear – it is navy, it has some stretch and it doesn’t crush.
I’ve worn this to lots of important work events and it always makes me feel like a successful professional woman.
The Stokx Eve shirt, underneath the swing coat, above is another one hit wonder (I’m not counting my wearable toile for this exercise!).
This was made in 2023 and I wear this a lot, despite the Liberty fabric being more easily creased than I expected for a Tana lawn (perhaps it isn’t actually Tana lawn?).
The pattern drafting is brilliant – the bias back and side panels make it so good to wear. I really need to make this pattern again!
A Burda shirt pattern, 04/2010 #114, made in Liberty Tana lawn is another well worn and a well loved garment. The fabric was bought from the actual Liberty store in London so I am certain of its authenticity!
Despite the colours not really being me, this shirt continues to be worn a lot since I made it in 2018. It’s a classic pattern, I sewed it well and it’s delightful fabric.
I can’t not include this crinkled georgette Burda blouse, 12/2013 #107. It is ancient – made in 2014 – but still gets worn. Its loose shape is one of the reasons for its longevity – it still fits! The print is the real star though. Hard to see in the poor quality photo below but it is a digital print of feathers in gorgeous rich colours.
The fabric is a bit pilled (but its textural nature makes that not so noticeable) and the neck facing is still a bit scratchy (note to self: don’t use polyester organza for anything against your skin) and it has no fastenings
But this coat still works for an outer layer for all events, even formal events, as a warm layer on any occasion from casual to corporate, as a dressing gown over pajamas and does double duties as a pillow or rug whilst travelling. All of this without any creasing.
It really is the bomb!
What has made it both successful and long lived?
It’s a combination of things –
Monochrome colour – works with almost everything.
Texture – I can’t tell you how many people , strangers and friends alike, want to stroke this coat and sometimes do so whilst asking permission to do so rather than waiting for me to say it’s okay!
Knit – the wearing comfort from having stretch, and the fact that it still fits even though I’ve gone up a size or two since this was made.
Fabric quality – goes without saying that better fabrics will make garments that last longer
Shape – the egg or boule shape adds interest and the three quarter length sleeves balance this shape. I’ve made this pattern, Burda 12/2011 #114, two other times in woven fabrics (crazy cat fabric and more sensible coating) with this length sleeve and both of those worked well, and once with a longer sleeve in a similar knit to this one, but it wasn’t as successful. I blame the sleeve length!
Clothes I reach for on a regular basis are often repeat patterns
The Closet Core Patterns Kalle shirt is a great example of this.
One of my first Kalles was this pink shirt made in 2017, and worn constantly since then.
It is still in the wardrobe. It works for summer on its own and in winter under another layer. I love the colour and it has great buttons (vintage and purchased on holiday at Portobello Road markets, so also happy memories!)
I’ve only just retired this Kalle due to fabric wear and persistent tearing. I now have a stack of the fanciest cleaning rags ever. Even if they are faded!
The fabric makes this Kalle a bit stiff, but I love the shape and the print, so its still a favourite!
I also have a Kalle shirt dress made in 2018 that is on its last legs and being held together with patches, but still being worn. I really need to make a replacement.
It’s nowhere near this colour any more (delightfully faded) but then, neither is my hair!
This is not an exhaustive list of all the Kalles I’ve made, just those that still get worn a lot. It’s a great pattern.
Another Closet Core top pattern made multiple times is the Cielo
Another top pattern made on repeat is Newlook 6471
I’ve made three versions of this pattern, and all are still in the wardrobe, but the one that gets worn regularly is this mustard IKEA throw one made in 2022. It’s a combination of great colour and deliciously squishy fabric that makes this work so well.
It’s days are numbered though – the fabric is starting to pill, as you can see in the photo above taken this week.
This Burda pattern, 01/2016 #114, has also generated two long-lived and well loved tops.
Both versions spent some time in Felicity’s wardrobe but the dark floral one, made in 2019, is now back in mine, where it belongs! Sadly, the lighter floral version made in 2016 had to be retired recently – it had developed some rips and worn patches.
The Closet Core Patterns Sienna jacket is another great example.
My first version of this pattern was made as part of a travel wardrobe for 2020. We all know how COVID-19 made that turn out!
However, the jacket is a winner and its still regularly worn even if it never did get to travel. The fabric is perfect – an interesting print, good weight and the perfect amount of body for this style. Other Sienna’s I’ve made from softer fabrics (here and here) haven’t been as successful – although they are still in the wardrobe.
True Bias’s Lodo dress is another repeat pattern that has lasted the distance.
I first made three Lodos in 2020. Then a fourth one a few months later. Went back to it again more recently, and have several more versions that are still regularly worn.
It’s a simple design that is very easy to wear. It’s time I pulled this pattern out again!
And another example is StyeArc’s Adeline dress.
I made several versions of this pattern in 2021 (African wax print,red floral border print and an aqua silk nylon blend) teal and whilst all of them are still in the wardrobe, the aqua one stands out for having been worn many many times and for many different occasions. This is another pattern I need to use again soon!
And yet another example is StyleArc’s Mila dress
I’ve made several versions of this pattern too and whilst all of them are still in the wardrobe, the first one I made in 2022 is in regular rotation for work. So much so that I wore it for the last lot of professional work photos.
The Friday Patterns Wilder dress and top pattern is another one which has resulted in several long lasting garments for me. The stand out is this blue floral dress made in 2019.
In a blog post like this, I can’t not mention Burda’s pencil skirt patterns. I’ve made multiple versions of many of Burda’s pencil skirt patterns. They could be a blog post all on their own! But this has already go too long.
The one that stands out in my current wardrobe is Burda 09/2008 #136:
In tri-acetate suiting made in December 2022, with a different type of pocket and still no hem tucks.
This navy skirt has been an amazing work horse in my work wardrobe – probably worn weekly most months of the year.
And lets finish this very long blog post with another of my all time favourites – Tessuti’s Bella Dress.
This one in a polyester ITY knit is still going strong, after 8 years of frequent wear. Others still exist in both my wardrobe and Felicity’s.
Love this pattern!
This has been a fun blog post to research and write. I thought that most, if not all, of these long-lived garments would be in solid colour, but its interesting that they are not all solids. Prints can live long too!
I pulled out the leftover fabric from this blouse to trial another pattern and realised I had not written a blog post. Oops. This blouse was made over two years ago. And I love the blouse! It deserves to be on the blog!
Back in July 2023
Still wearing it in September 2025!
This is Burda pattern #129 from the 11/2015 issue of the magazine.
I left off the breast pockets
I sized up to a size 48 because the pattern was drafted for fabric with stretch – I was sewing a midweight cotton poplin. I also “petited” it by removing 2 cm above the bust- my usual adjustment to account for being short waisted.
My fabric had been in the stash for more than 3 years and was only 115 cm wide so I was pleased to be able to still cut this out from 2.5 m. Not having a yoke helped get it out from only 2.5 m.
I was also very pleased to be able to cut this out, with pattern matching, within the 2.5 m. The pattern repeat was less than 10 cm so that also would’ve helped!
For some reason that I don’t remember I added patches of interfacing to the front cut on button hand rather than one big strip. And took photos of it for the blog.
A bit of a fiddle to get them in the right spot ( I remember that much!) and it all turned out well. The buttons and buttonholes are well secured and the band is not stiff. Perhaps that was the reason? I should’ve written this blog post soon after construction. It would have been more informative! I suspect three layers of cotton poplin would’ve been fine without interfacing too.
As usual, I used Liz Haywood’s excellent instructions for the tower placket on the sleeves.
I couldn’t decide between the yellow or blue buttons so I used both on the sleeves! The main buttons used on the shirt itself are the blue ones with one yellow button at the neck.
This is a detail probably only I see but it makes me happy! Which I expect is a truism for most sewists.
So, a blouse sewn in June 2023, and worn regularly in cooler months since then, finally makes it to the blog in September 2025. Better late than never…
He Cooks... She Sews!