L'aile ou la cuisse

I first saw "L'aile ou la cuisse" as a little kid, with my nose glued to the screen, and when I saw it again as a grown man, my children and grandchildren gathered around my feet, stroking my white beard and smoking a pipe, it was amazing how many of the jokes I could still remember verbatim. To me Louis de Funès is one of the greatest comedic actors, and I could sit for hours just watching a loop of him when he goes "Ooh!", his content "petit bonhomme" face exploding in a brief moment of heartfelt, yet premeditated rage; unfortunately he often squandered his talent in formulaic money makers such as the "Gendarme of St. Tropez" series (not that I wouldn't love those either, but they are more "good for a few laughs" than "must - see classic"). In "L'Aile ou la cuisse", finally, Funès talent is matched with a decent director and story line, allowing him to remain true to his schtick while gaining depth (not a lot, but just enough).

"L'aile ou la cuisse" is this type of film: if one day I should watch it and not find it funny anymore, then I know that it's time for me to leave this earth. Thank you Louis!

If it takes me to explain to you that the French take their cuisine very seriously, you probably have just arrived on this planet and seek somebody to take you to our leader. Sure, cheese that reek like dead mans feet, stuffed duck or escargot (that's snails, in case you live in the States) are not everybody's cup of tea. But taste is debatable. Quality is not and for things concerning (culinary) quality, you need not look further than La Belle France. It doesn't come as a huge surprise hence that many French films concern themselves with the kitchen and even less of a surprise that master-comedian (and passionate chef in his own rights) Louis de Funes would eventually take the topic on.

Publicist Charles Duchemin (de Funes) is the bane of all French restaurants: His food-guide bestows the much coveted Duchemin-Stars upon the restaurants (or takes them away if warranted – which is more often the case than not). Having some of the keenest taste-buds in all of France, Duchemin takes it upon himself to "test" the individual restaurants, usually disguised as a harmless (looking) old lady or an American tourist. But Duchemin has a nemesis of his own: scheming Jacques Tricatel (deliciously slimy Julien Guiomar), industrial food-producer that delivers virtually artificial food to chains and roadside Inns. Being challenged to a TV-interview by Tricatel, Duchemin (after having almost been 'poisoned' by eating some of Tricatels produces) has lost his sense of taste, yet must save French cuisine somehow.

It is my firm opinion that de Funes later films were also his best. This goes for "The Mad Adventures of Rabbi Jacob", his second-to-last feature "The Cabbage Soup" as well as "L'aile ou la cuisine", filmed shortly after de Funes had recovered from a massive heart-attack. Perhaps it was his failing health and age that made the comedian (slightly) move away from his hyper-paced screen-persona to a more subtle humour (despite all the typical trademarks still being present, albeit tuned down). In the past, de Funes sidekicks had a hard time not being paled out by de Funes performance, but in his later years you could tell, that the comedian timed his humour so as to give the other cast-member some breathing space. In this case comedian Coluche, playing de Funes son and reluctant partner-in-crime, who would rather be a circus-clown than a connoisseur. Like de Funes, Coluche has mastered the art of physical slapstick without turning the gags into an infantile farce. The scene, where he inherently mimics a waiter with a nervous disorder, is pure slapstick gold, turning it almost into an art-form.

Apart from being one of de Funes last few films, it does have a rather depressing prophecy. If you have travelled through France and Belgium, the hearts of European cuisine in recent days, you will have noticed the abundance of fast-food-joints in the cities and highway-stops. You may even have tried the grub there (I refuse to call it food) and, if you have seen the film, you may have looked around, looking whether you'd spot the "Tricatel"-logo anywhere, perhaps printed on the thigh of a chicken – if indeed chicken it was that they were serving.

Still, the film remains a delight and a clean 8/10

This is almost the last movie of this giant french actor who can squeeze my heart as no one else. His big heart, his class, his musical beat and his funniness shine as never and he is blessed to give the torch to a spiritual son, Coluche. I don't find any other movie where two generations are together on screen: Funes was the best in France in 60-70 and Coluche followed him for 70-80. Sadly, Coluche died young and 30 years later, no one takes the seat. Thus, this reunion is exceptional and the movie is as funny as prophetic: Funes is the old wealthy world, Coluche is the common people and the great villain, Ticastel, is the new industrial leader. Those who loved France will be happy because you can see Paris and the country when it was still developing. The offices and factories are brand new. And for sure, the main subject is about a french emblem, the food. It's true now that we cook some industrial food and that the fight fast-food / restaurant is heavy. The movie is totally right when it depicts french waiter as unpleasant. In conclusion, have a taste of this fantastic french flavor!

"Aile ou la cuisse" is a satire about french gourmet-bible "Gault Millau". French comedian Louis de Funes plays restaurant critic Charles Duchemin who struggles for the subsistence of french cuisine. Because of its many slapstick scenes it is one of my and my friends all time favourites. A great satire about contemporary eating habits and french "grandeur". Just right for a boring sunday afternoon.

Saw this in an un-subtitled version 8/6/15. Monsieur DeFunes is in fine form as a champion of traditional French gastronomy farcically at war with "industrial" cuisine. The pairing with Coluche works better than a bottle of Bordeaux alongside a plate of bifteck frites. DeFunes' Donald Duck persona complements Coluche's sad clown, the son of DeFunes' character secretly pursuing a career in greasepaint under le big top. The whole thing must have worked for me because I laughed. Here is a very entertaining movie. After having seen several DeFunes movies, I find myself asking once again, why didn't this talent catch on in America, other than very modestly for his work in "Rabbi Jacob"? (1973) The guy was funny. Coluche was not going for the big laughs in the movie here, instead playing in convincing fashion a sympathetic character, as the script intended. I want to see more of his movies, too. We Americans may not appreciate his humor the way the Europeans did, but this film clearly displays his ability as an actor in possession of considerable emotional depth.