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US20040063604A1 - Perfume compositions - Google Patents

Perfume compositions Download PDF

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Publication number
US20040063604A1
US20040063604A1 US10/450,900 US45090003A US2004063604A1 US 20040063604 A1 US20040063604 A1 US 20040063604A1 US 45090003 A US45090003 A US 45090003A US 2004063604 A1 US2004063604 A1 US 2004063604A1
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United States
Prior art keywords
oil
methyl
materials
perfume composition
weight
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Abandoned
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US10/450,900
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English (en)
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John Behan
Keith Perring
Les Small
David McNulty
Anne Richardson
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Givaudan Nederland Services BV
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Individual
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Assigned to QUEST INTERNATIONAL B.V. reassignment QUEST INTERNATIONAL B.V. ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: RICHARDSON, ANNE, MCNULTY, DAVID, PERRING, KEITH DOUGLAS, BEHAN, JOHN MARTIN, SMALL, LES
Publication of US20040063604A1 publication Critical patent/US20040063604A1/en
Priority to US12/149,985 priority Critical patent/US7824715B2/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61LMETHODS OR APPARATUS FOR STERILISING MATERIALS OR OBJECTS IN GENERAL; DISINFECTION, STERILISATION OR DEODORISATION OF AIR; CHEMICAL ASPECTS OF BANDAGES, DRESSINGS, ABSORBENT PADS OR SURGICAL ARTICLES; MATERIALS FOR BANDAGES, DRESSINGS, ABSORBENT PADS OR SURGICAL ARTICLES
    • A61L9/00Disinfection, sterilisation or deodorisation of air
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11BPRODUCING, e.g. BY PRESSING RAW MATERIALS OR BY EXTRACTION FROM WASTE MATERIALS, REFINING OR PRESERVING FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES, e.g. LANOLIN, FATTY OILS OR WAXES; ESSENTIAL OILS; PERFUMES
    • C11B9/00Essential oils; Perfumes
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11DDETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D3/00Other compounding ingredients of detergent compositions covered in group C11D1/00
    • C11D3/50Perfumes

Definitions

  • This invention relates to perfume compositions which aim to promote relaxed and related mood states in subjects, particularly humans.
  • the invention also concerns methods of delivering positive mood benefits or relaxation benefits to a subject.
  • fragrance materials and essential oils can promote feelings of relaxation and well-being. More recently these materials have been used in cosmetic products to similar effect per se and to enhance the effects of other materials/actives in the products. Many of these products rely on the use of simple mixes of essential oils to provide this benefit, eg lavender, jasmin oil, camomile and ylang-ylang.
  • Aromatherapy employs essential oils which are applied to the skin, for example with massage. The effect here involves additional processes other than smell.
  • essential oils are used primarily for their smell and a mood state change may result. In these examples the oils are used singly or in simple mixtures.
  • Tisserand The Art of Aromathetapy”, C. W. Daniel, London (1985) and “Aromatherapy for People”, Pengin Books (1988) both by R. Tisserand.
  • aromatherapy products which may claim to “contain a fragrance which is relaxing and soothing”.
  • aromatherapy products intend to enhance the sensory experience of the user, but there is no systematic teaching that can direct the perfumer to design products that would consistently provide this benefit. In many cases the claim is more akin to a marketing positioning statement, with a view to differentiating variants or competitive products.
  • Aroma-Chology® is a term coined by the Olfactory Research Fund Ltd. (see the extensive review by J Jellinek in Cosmetics & Toiletries , (1994) 109, pp 83-101). It is concerned specifically with the temporary, beneficial psychological effects of aromas on human behaviours and emotions to improve mood and quality of life. In fact, a large number of products promoted as having aromatherapy benefits can be more accurately identified for their Aroma-Chology® benefits as they produce temporary psychological effects. Again, however, there is no teaching as to how to formulate products to achieve such benefits qualitatively or quantitatively with a reliable expectation of success. In addition it is well known that fragrances can be perceived as associated with different attributes in different countries. Thus it may be that a fragrance found to be “stimulating” to the Japanese consumer will not be “stimulating” to the European consumer. Prior art perfumes do not exhibit the required robustness.
  • Hirsch (U.S. Pat. No. 5,904,916) teaches a method for enhancing learning in a person by the administration of a mixed/floral odorant, preferably composed of fresh, citrus, herbaceous, fruity and floral odorants, exemplified by Mixed-Floral IFF No. 2635-AS. No further teaching was disclosed on other fragrances of the invention which may have similar psychological benefits.
  • fragrances are more susceptible to interpretation being governed by context, eg the country in which the assessor grew up, the appearance of the product in which the perfume is assessed, the use of the product (eg washing with soap).
  • Kan et al (18 th International Congress, IFSCC, Kunststoffia, (October 1994), preprints 769-784) showed that cosmetics which beautify the person have psychoimmunological effects which manifest as an increase in the body's immune status, as measured by salivary IgA.
  • Japanese Patent No. 06172781 describes deactivating (sedative) perfumes based on the use of 1,3-dimethoxybenzene-5-methylbenzene. No teaching on other perfume ingredients was disclosed in either publication.
  • the present invention seeks to address at least some of the problems described above, in particular that of the creative scope available to perfumers, and possibly also robustness across different consumer groups and performance reliability.
  • a perfume composition which aim to induce or be associated with positive, low activation moods and emotions.
  • a perfume composition comprises:
  • Non-Relaxing Ingredients provided that the ratio of R to NR is at least 0.75, preferably at least 0.9;
  • ‘R’ ingredients comprise anethole, BangalolTM, basil oil, cis-hex-3-enol, coumarin, ethylene brassylate, ethyl linalol, FlorosaTM, GalaxolideTM, geraniol, cyclohexadecanolide, cyclopentadecanone, methyl anthranilate, alpha-iso-methyl ionone, PrunellaTM, SilvanoneTM, alpha-terpineol, TraseolideTM, UltravanilTM, gamma-undecalactone, vetiver oil, vetiver acetate;
  • ‘NR’ ingredients comprise methyl nonyl aldehyde (aldehyde MNA), allyl amyl glycolate, acetyl cedrene, Amberlyn SuperTM, amyl salicylate, armoise oil, benzyl salicylate, bergamot oil, BourgeonalTM, cedar leaf oil, citronellol, beta-damascone, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate, Ethyl SafranateTM, EverniateTM, geranyl nitrile, HelionalTM, heliotropin, hexyl salicylate, lemon oil, LigustralTM, LilialTM, LyralTM, MefrosolTM, orange oil, orange terpenes, tagetes oil, tetrahydrogeraniol, vanillin;
  • ‘N’ ingredients comprise benzyl acetate, cassis base, Cyclamen AldehydeTM, carvone, cinnarnic alcohol, dihydroeugenol, dihydromyrcenol, eugenol, ExtralideTM, galbanum, gamma-decalactone, hydroxycitronellal, indole, isoeugenol, jasmin oil, Jasmopyrane ForteTM, linalol, linalyl acetate, methyl dihydrojasmonate (MDJ), octahydrocoumarin, patchouli oil, 2-phenylethyl alcohol, rose oxide, rose oil, SandaloneTM, SandaloreTM, styrallyl acetate, ylang-ylang;
  • ‘M’ ingredients comprise perfumery materials not included in the above, excluding odourless or low-odour solvents or diluents used as vehicles for other perfume components.
  • Another aspect of the invention relates to a method for delivering positive mood benefits, particularly relaxation, to a subject, particularly a human subject, comprising delivering a perfume composition in accordance with the invention in a form selected from consumer products intended for application to skin, hair, hard surface or fabrics, and from air care products such as airfresheners.
  • the present invention is based on extensive testing of fragrance materials, both by consumer testing and by measurement of brain electrical activity particularly alpha wave activity measured by electroencephalography (EEG), and statistical analysis of the resulting data to classify the materials into different categories, namely relaxing fragrance materials or ingredients (R) that induce in subjects exposed to them positive, low activation moods and emotions, such as relaxation (i.e. relaxing properties), non-relaxing fragrance materials or ingredients (NR) that induce in subjects exposed to them negative, high activation moods or emotions (i.e. non-relaxing properties), neutral fragrance materials or ingredients (N) having a neutral effect in terms of relaxing properties.
  • Other fragrance materials (of which there are around three to four thousand currently available commercially and used in perfume formulation) are designated as class M materials.
  • the invention enables perfume compositions to be defined that are likely to induce in subjects exposed to them positive, low activation moods and emotions, such as relaxation. Such perfume compositions are referred to herein for convenience as relaxing perfumes.
  • the definition of the perfume composition nevertheless provides sufficient freedom in formulation to permit consideration of the hedonic properties of the composition.
  • the invention can thus enable formulation of perfume compositions that are relaxing and also have good hedonic properties.
  • the present invention describes how to formulate reliably novel fragrances which are likely to induce or be associated with positive, low activation moods and emotions, particularly relaxing effects. The effects are sufficiently pronounced that they can be measured reliably and reproducibly.
  • the perfume compositions made according to the teachings disclosed herein can be hedonically pleasant, suitable for a wide range of consumer products, and of sufficient pleasantness/acceptability that they would be appropriate even if they did not possess added functionality.
  • perfume compositions of the invention can be resilient to variation in the target consumer group (eg Japanese versus American) and have been found to be perceived as consistently relaxing/reassuring etc for consumers in England, France, USA and Japan.
  • fragrances which are relaxing (or promote related affect responses) operate by mechanisms other than pleasantness alone.
  • Mood and emotion are hard-wired in the brain and are triggered by external stimuli.
  • the basis for systematically selecting olfactory stimuli which evoke specific patterns of brain activity and evoke specific emotions were not previously known.
  • There are a number of methods for gauging the state of relaxation for example self-appraisal based on adjective-lists, and measurements of brain wave activity, particularly that of the alpha waves (8 to 13 Hz range). In other sensory modalities it would be expected that an increase in power/amplitude in the alpha frequency band would be associated with positive feelings.
  • class ‘R’ Increasing the level of these relaxing ingredients
  • class ‘NR’ the non-relaxing group
  • a third group had a neutral effect (class ‘N’).
  • Combinations of fragrance ingredients which are commercially useful and aesthetically pleasant generally require materials in all three classes to be present. The number of perfume ingredients available commercially is around three to four thousand materials.
  • these other materials may be added to fragrances of the invention without loss of benefit, provided that the weight ratio of relaxing materials to the sum of class M and class NR materials is equal to or greater than around 0.75.
  • some materials having no odour or very weak odours are used as diluents or vehicles for other ingredients.
  • Non-limiting examples of these are dipropylene glycol (DPG), diethyl phthalate, benzyl benzoate, triethyl citrate and isopropyl myristate. Such materials are not counted towards the definition/formulation of the perfume compositions of the invention.
  • the present invention thus provides a perfume composition
  • a perfume composition comprising:
  • the R materials are selected from the group consisting of anethole, 2-ethyl-4(2′,2′,3′-trimethylcyclopent-3′-enyl)but-2-enol (eg BangalolTM), basil oil, cis-hex-3-enol, coumarin, ethylene brassylate, ethyl linalol, 2-(2′-methylpropyl)-4-hydroxy-4-methyltetrhydropyran (eg FlorosaTM), hexahydro-4,6,6,7,8,8-hexamethylcyclopenta[g]-2-benzopyran (eg GalaxolideTM), geraniol, cyclohexadecanolide, cyclopentadecanone, methyl anthranilate, alpha-iso-methyl ionone, mixtures of dimethyl benzyl carbinyl butyrate and phenoxyethyl isobutyrate (e.
  • anethole 2-
  • PrunellaTM mixtures of cyclohexadecanolide and cyclopentadecanone (e.g. SilvanoneTM), alpha-terpineol, 6-acetyl-1-isopropyl-2,3,3,5-tetrahydrotetralin (eg TraseolideTM), 2-ethoxy-4-methlyphenol (eg UltravanilTM), gamma-undecalactone, vetiver oil, vetiver acetate;
  • SilvanoneTM alpha-terpineol
  • 6-acetyl-1-isopropyl-2,3,3,5-tetrahydrotetralin eg TraseolideTM
  • 2-ethoxy-4-methlyphenol eg UltravanilTM
  • gamma-undecalactone vetiver oil, vetiver acetate
  • the NR materials are selected from the group consisting of methyl nonyl aldehyde, allyl amyl glycolate, acetyl cedrene, 3a,6,6,9a-perhydrotetramethylnaphtho [2,1-b] furan (eg Amberlyn SuperTM), amyl salicylate, armoise oil, benzyl salicylate, bergamot oil, 4-tert-butyl-3-phenylpropanal (eg BourgeonalTM), cedar leaf oil, citronellol, beta-damascone, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate, ethyl 2,6,6-trimethylcyclohexadienecarboxylate (eg Ethyl SafranateTM), methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate (eg EverniateTM), geranyl nitrile, 3-(1,3-benzodioxol
  • the N materials are selected from the group consisting of benzyl acetate, cassis base, 2-methyl-3-(4-(1-methylethyl)phenyl)propanal (eg Cyclamen AldehydeTM), carvone, cinnamic alcohol, dihydroeugenol, dihydromyrcenol, eugenol, 6-acetyl-1,1,3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetrahydronaphthalene (eg ExtralideTM), galbanum, gamma-decalactone, hydroxycitronellal, indole, isoeugenol, jasmin oil, 3-pentyltetrahydro-2H-4-pyranyl ethanoate (eg Jasmopyrane ForteTM), linalol, linalyl acetate, methyl dihydrojasmonate, octahydrocoumarin, patchouli oil,
  • the M materials comprise perfumery materials not included in the above, excluding odourless or low-odour solvents or diluents used as vehicles for fragrance materials.
  • Preferred perfume compositions comprise at least 35% by weight in total of class R materials, even more preferably at least 45% by weight in total of class R materials. Also preferred are those perfumes wherein the weight ratio of R to NR (or R to the sum of NR and M) exceeds unity, or more preferably exceeds two, or is even higher
  • the perfume composition preferably includes optionally up to about 25% by weight in total of non-relaxing (NR) fragrance materials.
  • NR non-relaxing
  • At least 5% by weight, or even more preferably at least 10% by weight, of the perfume composition comprises class R ingredients drawn from the following list, mostly characterised by exhibiting sweet and/or musky notes: coumarin, ethylene brassylate, GalaxolideTM, cyclohexadecanolide, cyclopentadecanone, TraseolideTM, UltravanilTM, gamma-undecalactone.
  • the perfume composition may optionally include one or more odourless or low-odour solvents and/or diluents, e.g. as a vehicle for a fragrance material. Any such solvents and/or diluents are not included when calculating percentages and ratios of R, NR, N and M materials of the composition.
  • Materials of class ‘M’ include prior art perfume materials which are not specified as being members of any of classes R, NR or N, excluding odourless or low-odour solvents or diluents, as noted above. They may be single ingredients, or mixtures both synthetic and natural (for example essential oils, and concretes), and are well described e.g. in: “Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials” by Bauer, Garbe and Surburg, VCH Publ., 2nd edition (1990), and “Perfume and Flavour Materials”, Steffen Arctander, published in two volumes by the author (1969), and also by Arctander “Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin”, (1960).
  • Another aspect of the invention relates to a method for delivering positive mood benefits, particularly relaxation, to subjects, particularly humans, comprising delivering fragrance in a form selected from consumer products intended for application to the body (that is to skin or hair), to hard surfaces (eg kitchen and bathroom worktops, ceramic surfaces), to fabrics, and for air care benefits (for example, airfresheners).
  • consumer products intended for application to the body (that is to skin or hair), to hard surfaces (eg kitchen and bathroom worktops, ceramic surfaces), to fabrics, and for air care benefits (for example, airfresheners).
  • Such products can take a variety of forms including powders, bars, sticks, tablets, creams, mousses, gels, liquids, sprays, and sheets.
  • the amount of perfume in such products may lie in a range from 0.05% (as for example in low odour skin creams) to 30% (as for example in fine fragrances) by weight thereof.
  • perfume into products of these types is known, and existing techniques may be used for incorporating perfumes for this invention. It may be possible to incorporate perfume directly into a product, but another possibility is, to absorb the perfume on a carrier material and then admix the perfume-plus-carrier mixture into the product.
  • the invention thus also includes within its scope a consumer product, e.g. a fabric treatment composition, a personal product composition or a hard surface treatment composition, comprising a perfume composition in accordance with the invention.
  • a consumer product e.g. a fabric treatment composition, a personal product composition or a hard surface treatment composition, comprising a perfume composition in accordance with the invention.
  • a method of delivering positive mood benefits or relaxation benefits to a subject comprising administering to the subject on effective amount of a perfume composition in accordance with the invention.
  • the composition should be administered in appropriate amount to produce a benefit (i.e. a suprathreshold amount) without causing irritation (i.e. a non-irritant amount).
  • a benefit i.e. a suprathreshold amount
  • irritation i.e. a non-irritant amount
  • An appropriate effective amount of any given composition can be readily determined e.g. by experiment.
  • the composition should be administered for inhalation by the subject.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram illustrating electrode placement on the head of a test subject.
  • FIG. 2 is an example of a map obtained by multidimensional scaling methods (MDS) analysis of brain electrical activity mapping (BEAM) data.
  • MDS multidimensional scaling methods
  • BEAM brain electrical activity mapping
  • Odour descriptions of the perfume compositions listed above are as follows: Composition Odour Type R1 Floral fruity R2 Muguet woody amber R3 Green fruity floral R4 Green floral R5 Powdery floral R6 Fruity floral R7 Muguet violet sandalwood R8 Fruity floral R9 Green fruity floral R10 Marine floral R11 Powdery floral R12 Floral fruity
  • BEAM Brain Electrical Activity Mapping
  • This technique enables measurement of changes in patterns of brain response in real time.
  • the experiment was conducted in a large well ventilated laboratory with the subjects seated comfortably in an armchair. During the experiment subjects experienced reduced visual and auditory perception. To achieve this subjects wore blacked out goggles and headphones which gave a tolerable level of white noise about (70 dB). The headphones also allowed the experimenter to communicate with subjects between electroencephalograph (EEG) recording trials. All subjects reported afterwards that they found the experiment to be relaxing and pleasant.
  • EEG electroencephalograph
  • EEG data were collected from over the whole of the scalp using a fabric cap which contained 28 electrodes (Electro-cap International, Inc., USA) built into small plastic buttons in an enhanced International 10/20 electrode placement system.
  • the electrodes were made from highly purified tin and referenced to linked earlobes.
  • a NaCl/KCl gel was used as the conducting medium.
  • the configuration over the scalp is given in FIG. 1.
  • Bandpass filters were set at 0.3 and 40 Hz. And sampling rate was 200 Hz.
  • the data handling system dealt with amplitude data from each of the 28 electrodes for all of the conventional EEG wavebands.
  • a Neuroscience Brain Imager series III model was used to collect the EEG data. This machine uses a computerized real time Fast Fourier Transformation (FFT) technique which allows the averaging of the EEG responses over 2.56 second periods or frames.
  • FFT Fast Fourier Transformation
  • the EEG signals recorded from the subject are amplified, filtered and then multiplexed prior to analogue to digital conversion.
  • the Neuroscience Imager gives an averaged EEG amplitude for each electrode shown in FIG. 1 every 2.56 s.
  • EEG data were collected from all of the classical frequency bands (delta, 0-3.5 Hz; theta, 4-7 Hz; alpha 8-13 Hz; beta 1, 15-30 Hz and beta 2 31+ Hz). It was found, in line with earlier similar investigations (e.g. Van Toller et al 1993 (S van Toller, J Behan, P Howells, M Kendal-Reed and A Richardson, “An analysis of spontaneous human cortical EEG activity to odours”, Chemical Senses, vol. 18, pages 1-16 (1993)), and Moncrief 1962 (R Moncrieff, “Effects of odours on EEG records”, Perfumery Essential Oil Rec., vol.
  • the stimulus space was derived from a multidimensional scaling (MDS) analysis of the BEAM data.
  • MDS multidimensional scaling
  • the contributions of activity at different locations on the scalp was analysed by fitting averaged data for each electrode to the MDS configuration using a vector correlation model (ie the electrode contributions are shown by arrows with the electrode label, O1, FP2, etc, in FIG. 2).
  • the MDS map in this case is based on the similarity/dissimilarity of brain response patterns for each perfume. The more different the brain response patterns arising from two of the fragrances, the further apart the two fragrances will appear on the MDS map.
  • the vector model finds the best correlation between the two data sets (ie between the MDS space and the amplitude of response recorded at the electrodes, or between the MDS space and each market research attribute).
  • the MDS map was also examined using consumer mood profiling research data, and significant common attributes were identified for the countries where testing was conducted.
  • a summary chart bringing the different facets together is shown in FIG. 2 with correlations with German market research data.
  • nine of the attributes can be described by the vector model with F-ratios significant at the 5% level.
  • the vectors are shown on the map in FIG. 2, pointing in the direction of increasing perception. Maps (not shown) for US and French data were very similar.

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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Wood Science & Technology (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Fats And Perfumes (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Medicinal Preparation (AREA)
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US10/450,900 2000-12-20 2001-12-18 Perfume compositions Abandoned US20040063604A1 (en)

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GBGB0031047.4A GB0031047D0 (en) 2000-12-20 2000-12-20 Perfume compositions
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PCT/GB2001/005589 WO2002049600A1 (en) 2000-12-20 2001-12-18 Perfume compositions

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US20080096790A1 (en) * 2006-10-23 2008-04-24 Quest International Services B.V. Fragrance compositions
US20080096791A1 (en) * 2006-10-23 2008-04-24 Quest International Services B.V. Fragrance compositions
US20100048686A1 (en) * 2003-09-05 2010-02-25 Shiseido Co., Ltd. Perfume Composition For Temperature Sense Control, Sense Control Article, Sense Control Method, And Perfume Map
US20100211558A1 (en) * 2004-07-06 2010-08-19 Icosystem Corporation Methods and apparatus for interactive searching techniques
EP2286790A1 (de) * 2009-08-20 2011-02-23 Kneipp-Werke Kneipp-Mittel-Zentrale GmbH & Co. KG Produkte mit messtechnisch nachgewiesener olfaktorischer Wirkung zur Beeinflussung der psycho-physiologischen Ausgangslage
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EP1523543A1 (de) * 2002-07-18 2005-04-20 Quest International Services B.V. Verbesserungen bezüglich riechstoffkompositionen
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WO2007013581A1 (ja) * 2005-07-28 2007-02-01 Kobayashi Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd. 鎮静用組成物
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AU2002216204A1 (en) 2002-07-01
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US7824715B2 (en) 2010-11-02
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