US1801771A - Rubber and fabric footwear article and method of making - Google Patents

Description

April'zl, G. F. GOURLEY 1,801,771

RUBBER AND FABRIC FOOTWEAR ARTICLE AND METHOD OF MAKING Filed June 1929 2 Sheets-Sheet l ATTORNEY .G. F. GOURLEY April 21, 1931'.

RUBBER AND FABRIC FOOTWEAR ARTICLE AND METHODOF MAKING 2 Sheets-sheaf 2 Filed June 7. 1929 IN VENT 0R Georye .2? Gour-Ze y BY w ATTORNEY Patented Apr. 21, 1931 UNITED STATES PATEN FFICE GEORGE F. GOURLEY, OF BALDWIN, NEVT YORK, ASSIGNOR TO THE GOODYEARS INDIA RUBBER GLOVE MFG. 00., OF NAUGAT'UCK, CONNECTICUT, .A. CORPORATION OF COIL NECTIGUT RUBBER AND FABRIC FOOTWEAR ARTICLE AND METHOD OF MAKING Application filed June 7,

This invention relates 'to' a rubber and fabric footwear article and method of making it, more particularly to footwear articles of the gaiter or arctic type.

In the making of various types of gaiters and arctics, the usual practice for many years was to build the article on a last by individually superposing the various parts and compacting and adhesively uniting them at all points by hand rolling. fork of this character requires both skill and care in order to properly fit each superposed part on the part beneath it and conform the parts to the curve of the last, and in compacting them a small hand roller is used which has a practically line contact with the curved contours of the last so that this rolling must be carefully and completely done in order to insure that the parts are united at all points and free from air pocketswhich will cause blisters in the finished article and require it to be sold as a second. In order to avoid. such individual building up of the partson the last, it has been proposed to assemble inner and outer vamp parts in the flat by superposing them and rolling so as to form a complete or substantially complete vamp, and in a similar manner to assemble inner and outer quarter parts to form a complete or substantially complete quarter. The assembled vamp and quarter are then joined at opposite sides so as to form a closed upper which is then lasted as a whole and united. to an insole and the article finished inthe usual manner. An objection to this method lies in the fact that it requires lapped joints at the sides, either a single lapped joint of the entire vamp and quarter or multiple joints of the individual parts composing the vamp and quarterj As a result, the completed upper is stiffened at the joints and it does not last as smoothly and easily as desired. Moreover, if it is desired to reinforce these joints, the stifiness is further increased. An additional objection is that, particularly in the case of light gaiters and other types of footwear which have recently become popular for ladies use, the lapped joint on the inside of the article does not give as smooth a lit either when lasting the upper 1929. Serial No. 369,054.

on a last or when the finished article is in use. A common form of lining is made of either fieece material or cloth, and when this material is joined by a lapped joint at the sides of the article, the exposed lap tends to roll back and become loose by reason of lateral friction in putting 'on and taking off the article, thereby weakening the joint and marring the interior appearance of the article.

An object of my invention is to provide an improved method of making rubber and fabric footwear. Another object is to provide a method of making rubber and fabric footwear by which the upper may be smoothly and easily lasted. Another object is to provide a method by which a rubber and fabric footwear article having side pockets may be assembled with a minimum of inside seams and without the use of lapped joints at points exposed to friction. A further object is to provide an improved rubber and fabric footwear article. A still further object is to provide a rubber and fabric footwear article having a minimum number of joints in its lining. A still further object is to provide a rubber and fabric footwear article in which side seams on the interior are avoided. A still further object is to provide a rubber and fabric footwear article in which any joints in the lining are located at points which are not exposed to friction laterally of the joint, and which do not require special reinforcements but utilize reinforcements necessarily employed at such points in the construction. of the articles. Further objects will appear from the detailed description and claims. 7

The. invention consists broadly in form- ,ing a one piece lining adapted to have its ends joined at an end of the article, forming vamp and quarter outers, disposing one of these on the corresponding portion of the lining in the flat and uniting the two, and forming a closed upper by uniting the re-' maining outer to the remaining exposed portions of the lining, and finishingthe article. The invention also includes the article so formed.

For a complete disclosure of the nature and objects of the invention, reference is had to the accompanying drawings, in which latter:

Fig. l is a plan view showing a. one piece. lining with parts of the outer assembled therewith but partially turned back to show the construction;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of a quarter outer with certain detailed parts assembled thereon;

Fig. is a plan view of a heel piece with a reinforcement assembled thereon;

Fig. l is a. sectional view on the line 1 it through the upper of the footu ar article shown in and Fig. is a side view of a completed foot wear article.

In the accompanying drawings the invention is illustrated as embodied in a rubber-fabric footwear article of the type known a. a gaiter, and in carrying out this form of the invention a complete one piece lining 1 is cutout and laid flat.

rhis lining may be of any suitable material such as fleece lining, cloth or other suitable material. The lining material is first coated on one side with rubber in any suitable manner as by friction calendering, and in Fig. 1 the cut out lining is shown with its rubberized surface uppermost. In the specific embodiment, the lining has been cut so that its middle portion 2 corresponds to the vamp portion of the usual lining, while the end portions 3 wnen joined at their side edges correspond to the quarter portion of the lining. Prefe ably the part 1 is slit at the bottom adjacent the sides of the vamp portion as shown at 1, and to the edges of the slits gores 5 are secured. In the finished article pockets are formed by folding directly above the gores and the latter are inserted in order that the lower portion of the lining may be expanded when the pockets are formed. Following this, a. previously out inner vamp (5 is disposed on the vamp portion 2 of the lining with its lower edge spaced inwardly slightly from the lower edge of the lining so as to obtain a shingled effect. This inner vamp, as shown, is of rubber composition, but if desired, and particularly in the case of heavier footwear articles, it may be made of rubberized fabric. Quarter reinforcement strips 7 of the shape shown in 1 are next superposed on the lining, these strips also being of gum or if desired of rubberized fabric. Following this, a. cut out vamp outer 8 is disposed on the inner vamp 6 and lining 1 as shown, the upper edge of the vamp outer coinciding with the corresponding upper edge portion of the lining. This vamp outer in the embodimen shown is made of cloth which has been coated on one side with rubber, as by friction calende-ring, and as shown in Fig. 1, the rubberized side is disposed in contact with the inner vamp and lining while the cloth face is uppermost. The superposed parts are rolled together, with the exception of the side edge portions 9 of the vamp outer, which are not rolled down into adhesion with the parts beneath and are free as far back as the lines 10. Adjacent the lower end of the free edge portions 9, a small tab 11 is formed by slitting, this tab being lanped over the quarter outer in the assem bled. upper as will be later described. A friction coated back strip 12, which is also preferably given an additional calender coat on one side, is next disposed partly on the side edge 13 of the lining, as shown in Fig. 1, the calender coated side being downward and adhesively united to the edge of the lining. It will be noted that the side edges 13 of the lining are not straight throughout their extent, but at their lower ends are bent inwardly, as shown at 14. The pur pose of this inward bend is to cause the lining to conform to the inward curve of the last at the bottom of the heel when the edge portions 14 are united in the closed upper.

A cut out quarter outer 15 1s next laid flat, as shown in Fig. 2, this being of the same material as the vamp outer and as in the case of the one piece lining being disposed with its rubberized side upward. The outer is slit at the point 16 for the reception of a strap to be later described. A collar reinforcement 17, which is friction coated with rubber on both sides and is usually known as a friction collar, is superposed on the quarter outer with its upper edge in registry with the upper edge of the quarter outer. A collar piece 18 of the rubberized cloth similar to that used for the vamp and quarter outers, is cut to the same shape as the friction collar 17 and is superposed on the latter and the parts rolled together. A strap 19 made of cloth similar to the amp and quarter outers is cemented at one end and the cemented end 20 is inserted through the slit l6 and then covered with a stay piece 21 of friction coated fabric. At the opposite side of the quarter outer a small stay piece 22 of friction coated fabric is superposed, this latter piece being merely a reinforcement to securely anchor one member of a snap fastener which in the finished article is located at this point. The cornpleted quarter outer and collar is then provided with an ornamental over-edged seam 23 around the edges of the collar. When making an article having no collar, the quart-er outer is of course made without the collar parts.

A rubber ieel piece or heel foxing 24 is cut out to the shape shown in Fig. 3 and on this is superposed a reinforcing piece 25 made of fabric friction coated on both sides eora-7i and preferably then calendered on one side,

thiscalen'dered side being uppermost as shown in Fig. 3.

The assembly shown in Fig. 1 and the quarter outer assembly shown in Fig. 2 are "then united to form a closed upper,'and this upper member thus formed on a last and lasting it to an insole, andthereupon-joining the quarter outer assembly of Fig. 2 on the last. It is preferred, however, to join the quarter outer assembly to the lining and vamp outer assembly off the last and then dispose the thus closed upper on a last and unite it with an insole.

WVhile no particular order is essential in joining the quarter outer assembly to the lining and vamp outer assembly, a convenient method is as followsrThe left'hand quarter lining portion 3, asshown in'Fig. 1, is folded under on the line 10, leaving free the edge portion 9 of'the vamp outer. The upper left hand corner 26 of the vamp outer is then superposed on the point 27 of the quarter outer and the left hand free edge 28 of the vamp outer is superposed on the left hand edge 29 of the quarter outer. The upper left hand lining edge 30 is then laid coincident with the line 31 on the collar 18 and the entire lining portion 3 then rolled down on the corresponding left hand half of the quarter outer. This will bring the left hand lining edge 13 coincidentwith the vertical medial line of the quarter outer, and will bring the folding line 10 of the lining coincident with the line 32 on the quarter outer, with the left hand edge portion 9 of the vamp outer exactly coincident with, and

adhered to the left hand edge portion 33 of the quarter outer. The small tabll on the vamp outer is folded over and adhered to the lowercorner of the quarter outer. v

In the same manner, the right hand lining portion 3 is folded under on the line 10 and superposed on the right hand portion of the quarter outer, and the superposed parts joined by rolling.

The post member of a snap fastener is then secured to the quarter outerin centered position on the stay piece 22, the strap 19 which has previously been furnished with a center ornamental buckle and a buckle containing the complementary member of the snap fastener, is disposedacross the vamp and the membersof the snap fastener connected, the collar 18 is turned down and the upper foldedinas shown in Fig. 4 to form the pockets 34;. The strap 19 may be made by folding a strip of the rubberized outer material around a central reinforcing strip.

The upper is then pulled dow ri over a last insole before the lasting operation.

strength is desired, oints andits lower edges lasted over on to an'insole and secured thereto preferably by cement. A filler sole may then be disposed on the insole within the area enclosed by the lasted over portion of the upper, or instead the filler sole may be united to the article is then finished in the usual manner by applying a rubber heel plug 011 the bottom of the heel,'over which is placed a heel stay which extends up along the rear and sides of the heel, and a toe strip of frictioned fabric is then disposed along the lower The edge of the vamp portion of the article. The

heel piece shown in Fig. 3 may then be applied, followed bya rubber toe foxing 35. A bindersole of frictioned' fabric is then disposed on the sole portion of the article, an outsole applied and rolled down and the article finished by vulcanizing. These finish- I vention. Union of the various parts is obtained in the usual manner by the adhesiveness of the rubber coatings, or by cementing, or by'both. It is obvious, however, that in the case of heavy articles or where great by stitching, rivets, etc.

vVhile in the specific embodiment described a one piece lining has been shown as being adapted to be joined at theheel of the shoe and to be built up in the flat with the vamp may be reinforced H v being the part then built up in the fiat with the lining.

While in the specific embodiment illustrated the invention is applied to what is known as a cloth gaiter, it is equally applicable in the manufacture of rubber gaiters, that is, H

gaiters having a rubber outer instead of a cloth outer, cloth arctics and rubber arctics easily put on and taken off in use. Even in thefootwear articles built up in the flat with side seams, it is necessary. to have a half seam at the lower heel portion to take care of the inward curve of the heel, and by my construction a single full length seam at the heel takes the'plac-e of the usual half seam and two full seams at the sides of the article. Another advantage is that this seam being placed at the heel where reinforcements are necessary even in the usual constructionof the articles, permits these reinforcements to reinforce the seam Without stiffening the upper at points where it is not desired to have it stiffened.

It is obvious that changes may be made Without departing from the spirit of the invention, and it is not desired that it be limited except as defined in the appended claims.

Having thus described my-invention, what I claim and desire to protect by Letters Patent is:

l. The method of making rubber or rubberized footwear articles which comprises cutting out a one-piece lining adapted to have its ends joined at an end of the article, cutting out a vamp outer and a quarter outer, superposing one of them on its corresponding portion of the lining and adhesively uniting the two, thereby leaving the lining end portions exosed, superposing portions of the remaining outer on the corresponding exposed end portions of the lining and adhesively uniting them to form aclosed upper, lasting the upper on an insole, and finishing the article.

2. The method of making rubber or rubberized footwear articles which comprises cutting out a one-piece lining adapted to have its ends joined at an end of the article, cutting out separate vamp and quarter outers, superposing one of the outers on its corresponding portion of the lining and adhesively uniting the two, thereby leaving the lining end' portions exposed, superposing portions of the remaining outer successively on the corresponding exposed end portions of the lining and adhesively uniting them, superposing and joining adjacent side edge portions of the vamp and quarter outers in outstanding lapped joints, lasting the upper on an insole, and finishing the article.

3. The method of making rubber or rubberized footwear articles which comprises cutting out a one-piece lining adapted to have its ends joined at'the heel of the article, cutting out separate vamp and quarter outers, superposing the vamp enter on the corresponding medial portion of the lining and adhesively uniting'them, thereby leaving the lining end portions exposed, superposing the quarter outer on the corresponding exposed end portions of the lining and adhesively uniting them to form a closed upper, lasting the upper on an insole, and finishing the article.

4. The method of making rubber or rubberized footwear articles which comprises cutting out a one-piece lining adapted to have its ends joined at the heel of the article, cutting out separate vamp and quarter outers, superposing the vamp outer on'the corresponding medial portion of the lining and adhesively uniting them, thereby leaving the lining end portions exposed, superposing the quarter outer onthe-eorresponding exposed have its ends joined at the heel ofthe article,

cutting out an inner vamp, a vamp outer and a quarter outer, successively superposingthe inner vamp and vamp outer on the correspondingportion of the lining and ad hesively uniting them, thereby leaving the lining end portions exposed, superposing the quarter outer on and uniting it to said exposed lining end portions with the vertical edges of said end portions juxtaposed at the heel of the article, and superposing and joining the vertical side edge portions of the vamp outer to the corresponding vertical side edge portions of the quarter outer in outstandinglapped seams atithe sides of the article,-lastingthe closed upper on an insole, and finishing the article.

6. The method of making rubber or rubberized footwear articles which comprises cutting out a one-piece lining adapted to have its ends oined atthe heel of the article, cutting out an inner vamp and a vamp out er, successively superposing the inner vamp and vamp outer on the corresponding portion of the lining and adhesively uniting them, thereby leaving the lining end portions exposed, cutting out a quarter outer, a friction collar and. a cloth collar, successively superposing the friction collar and cloth collar on the inner side of the upper portion of the quarter outer, adhesively uniting the exposed end portions of the lin ing to the inner face of the quarter outer with the vertical rear edges of the lining juxtaposed and the horizontal upper edges of said lining end portions lapped on the lower edge of the collar, joining the vertical form pockets, the upper having vamp and quarter outers joined at the sides, and a one-piece lining joined at one end of the article.

8. A rubber and fabric footwear article comprising an upper having a continuous vamp and quarter folded at the sides to form pockets, the upper having vamp and quarter outers joined at the sides, and a onepieee lining joined at one end of the article,

said lining having gores below said pockets.

9. A rubber and fabric footwear article comprising an upper having a continuous vamp and quarter folded in at the sides to form pockets, the upper having vamp and quarter outers each composed of a single piece and joined at the sides in an outstanding lapped seam, and a one-piece lining joined at the heel.

10. A rubber and fabric footwear article comprising an upper having a continuous vamp and quarter folded in at the sides to form pockets, the upper'having vamp and quarter outers joined at the sides in an outstanding lapped seam, and a one-piece lining joined at the heel, said lining having gores below said pockets.

11. A rubber and fabric footwear article comprising an upper having a continuous vamp and quarter folded in at the sides to form pockets, the upper having vamp and quarter outers joined at the sides in an outstanding lapped seam, the quarter outer being extended above the body of the article to form a collar, said collar having an inner face of the same material as the quarter outer, and a one-piece lining joined at the heel, the upper rear edge of said lining being lapped on the lower edge of the inner face of the collar.

Signed at New York, county and State of New York, this 28th day of May, 1929.

GEORGE F. GOURLEY.

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