US1899761A - Garment - Google Patents

Description

w. Kops Feb. 28, 1933.

GARMENT 2 Sheets-Sheet 1Y Filed OCb. 20, 1931 FIG. I.

n INVENTQR- ATTORNEY- W. KOPS Feb. 28, 1933.

GARMENT 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Oct. 20, 1931 Hummm INVENTOR- BY v ATTORNEY- Patented Feb. 28, 1933 1 UNITED STATES WALDEMAR irons,4 or New YORK, N. Y., AssieNon 'ro Kors BROTHERS, 1Nc.,fonNEw YoitK, N. Y., A CORPORATION or New Yoan GARMENT Application led October 20, 1931.V Serial -No.'569,880.

. This invention relates to garments Yof the corset type and particularly tov combination garments including a girdle, and a brassire although it may be appliedto `simply a girdle.

A primary purpose of the invention is to provide an improved construction for the control of the waist line of a person wearing the garment. The arrangement is such that proper conlinement and definition .of the l@ waist line will be afforded at all times but in such a way that' this line will be permitted to yieldingly expand to adesired degree as the wearer of the garment assumes a sitting pos-` ture. It will be appreciated that as a person sits down there is a tendency to increase somewhat the waist line dimension. When lno special provision is madevto take careof this expansion considerable discomture is occasioned since the iesh which normally seeks to place itself at the wast line is neces# sarily prevented from doing so and is forced to other portions of the body. On the other' hand a certain degree of confinement at the waist-line is desirable under all conditions, particularly in view of the present trend of the styles toward positive denition of the waist-line. According to the present invention a desirable yconfinement is brought about at all times without unduly restricting eX- 730 pansion under conditions which make` it necessary.' it i A better appreciationof the invention `may be gained by reference to the general development of combination garments. When these garments were first devised there was no attempt made to confine the body at the Vwaist line. The stylesdecreed that the waistline should not be defined and accordingly` the garment was formed with `substantially 49 straight sides. As a result the waist line dimension, during this period, had a general tendency to increase somewhat. This has made more` diflicult now the problem of. properly confining the waist line to conform 15 with` the new styles. At the same time a new problem has been presented `in. the way `of properly allowing for expansion of the iesh at the waist'as the wearer of the new `styles sits down. The present invention affords a 5'3 solution for this problem in such a way that expansion is. permitted without causing an PATENT orsi-Ei objectionable bunching of the materialv of the girdlev at the waist when the'wearer is standing. l a

l With these and other features and advantages of the; invention in view an illustra! Figure 2 is a view of the inner side of the upper front portion of the garment.

Figure 3 isa detail sectional view along theline 23e-3 of Figure 1, and

Figure 4 is an outer face view of a' slightly n modified Vform of garment spread out. Referring now'to Figures 1 4to 3 of drawings there is disclosed a combination Y, garment the girdle portion of which may be of any usual construction involvinginelastic portions, largely at the front and back, and elastic sections at the sides. The front may, for example, comprise a central Vsection 10 and two lower side sections 11` and 12, all of inelastic material and all extending down# wardly to the lower edge of the garment which may be of the usual length. An inelastic insert 13 extending to the top contour 14 of the. girdle may be V,connected toy thevsection 10 by means of stitching A15 and` to the section 11 by stitching 16'. Its` left edge (Figure 1) may be secured to an elastic section 17 by means of a line of stitching 18."` Along its lower edge the section 17 may be stitched, as at 19to the inelastic portion 11 whilealong its right edge (Figure 2) itmay vbe joined by stitching 2O to an inelastic section 21 `'at the side of the garment.4 rThis arrangement perf, mits full elasticity adjacent the top of the section'lr' above the waist-lineand a-reasonable yield directly at the waist line but allows substantially no yield along the lower edge where it is stitched to the portion 11. A similar arrangementis provided at the opposite side of the front section. Thus an inelastic stitching 23 and to vsection 12 by stitching 24.

Stitching may serve to join the section 22 to an elastic section 26 which along its opposite ledge is secured by stitching 27 to a strip 28 that may carry the hooks for fastening the garment at the side of the body.

`Along its lower edge the section26 may be attached by stitching 29, which is a continua-V tion of stitching 24, to the section 12.

Superposed over the section 17 isan inelastic wing member 30 which is secured by stitching 31 to the section 21 and by the stitching 19 to the section 11. The other two edges of the wing member are tree of the material beneath them but the right edge (Figure 1) is connected by stitching 32 to an elastic member 33. The latter isfree along its upper and lower edges but is joined by stitching 34 atits opposite end to the central section 10. It will be noted that the two elastic sections 17 and 33 have one of their edges along substantially a common line, adjacent stitching 18 and 32. From this line the section 17 isr wing member 35 superposed over the elastic section 26 is joined along two edges by stitching 36 and 37 to the strip 28 and section'12, respectively. Member is tree along its upper edge but is `joined by stitching 38- along its left edge (Figure 1) to an elastic member 39 which is oined at its opposite end by stitching'. 40 to the central section 10. Member 39-is free along its upper and lower edges. The two elastic elements 26 and 39 are directed upwardly in opposite directions from the substantially common lines 25 and 3 8.Y The result ot' this construction is to provide Ya relatively free yielding structure at and above the waist line and below the bust, while a relatively unyielding structure Ais formed below therwaist line so that proper confinement of the waist without undue pressure and restraint is provided for all positions'assumed by the wearer. f

On the inner face of the garment there may be provided a pad 41 which may extend over the diaphragm and adjacent portions of the body of the'wearer. This pad may be stitched along its upper edge, as at 42, to the top of the girdle and at its side edges may be held by the stitching 18 and 25.v At intermediate points, tapes 43 and stitching 15 and 23 may serve to secure the pad to inelastic portions of the garment. Stays 44 may also be provided if desired, within the central portion of the pad. At its lower edge the central portion 45 is preferably left free while the side portions are included in the stitching 16 and 24. A

brassire 46 of any suitable form may be attached to the top of the girdle, being stitched to the sections 10, 13, 17 22,V and 26 but vnot to the members `30, 33, 35, and 39."v rllhe attachment of the brassire to the upper edges oi the elastic members 17 and 26 will not seriously interfere Vwith the stretching of these members since the material of the` brassire will permit expansion. A series of gathers may be provided in the edges' of the' brassire attached to the elastic members, if desired, to allow complete elasticity.

` Referring now to Figure 4 there is illustrated a somewhat modifiedform of garment embodying the features of the invention. AIn this instance the garment may similarly comprise a girdle formed of elastic and inelastic sections joined together. The back member 47 may, for example, comprise a strip 'of in# elastic material extending from the upper tothe lower edge of the garment and provided with suitable stitching 48 to form poel;- etsfor stays. On opposite sides of the back member there may be provided inelastic sections 49 and 50 forming a part of the lower These may portions of the side members. be secured to the back member by lines of stitching 51 and 52 or they may constitute an integral part of the material which forms the back. VAn elastic section 53 connected by stitching 54 to the section 49 may complete the lower portion of one side member while a similar elastic section 55 stitched along a An inelastic strip 61 may be 'provided to join the front member with the adjacent'side member, this strip being attached to the sections 55 and 59 by means of stitching 62 and to the frontmember by stitching 63. At the opposite side of the front member there is provided a similar strip 64v attached by stitching 65 to the front member and carrying fastening devices such as hooks, not shown, adapted to be engagedV with eyes `66 or similar devices carried by a strip 67 attached to the sections 53 and 58.

The front member of the garment may be of substantially the same form as that of the garment shown in Figures l to 3 but it may advantageously diler in certain particulars. It may conveniently comprise aninelastic central section 68 having an elastic insert 69 of triangular form. An inelastic section 70 may be attached to thev section68 by stitching 71 and to a further inelastic section 72 A similar i respectively.

the stitching 63 to the strip 61.-V A brassire j' section 76 may be suitably attached by stitching 77 to the sections 68 and 74 and also by stitching 63 to the strip 61, as shown. The same construction may be provided on the right side of the front member so as to include inelastic sections 78 and k7 9 joined by stitching 8O and secured to the central section andto the strip 64 by stitching 8l and 65,

cured thereto by stitching 82 is an elastic section 83. This section lis also secured to section 78 and strip 64 bystitchingSO and 65, respectively. A brassiresection 84 is secured to the sections 68, 78 an'd83 .by stitchinfr85 and to the strip 64 bythe stitching 65.

Tow superimposed over the elastic section v74 isan inelastic wing member 86 which is attached to the garment bythe stitching 63 but is, in this case, free along its upper and lower edges.` Its right end `has attached to it by stitching 87 an elastic section 88. This is also free along its upper and lower edges but is connected with the central section by stitching 7l. On the opposite side a similar wing member 89 and elastic section 90 are joined together by stitching 91 and are joined to the strip 64 and the central section 68, respectively, by the `stitching and 81. Themember 89 and section 90 are free along their upper and lower edges. As shown the elastic sections 88 and 90 are directed slightly downwardly away from the central section while the sections 74 and 83 are di rected downwardly toward the central section from the strips 62 and 64. In this way the tension on the various parts is applied in the desired direction. Thenet result of this construction is substantially the saine as for the first form. A positiveV definition of the waist-line is obtained at-all times without the objectionable bunching of the material when the person wearing the garment is standing. At the same time a relatively easy expansion at the waist line is provided for so that the additional flesh which is thrown to this point upon sitting down is readily accommodated. Expansion of the garment below the It will be understood that various features Above the section 79 and se` ofthe garment disclosed in Figures 1 to3v may be` applied toY the modified garment of Y Figure 4 and vice versa, orfeatures of one garment maybe substituted for corresponding features' of the other. i i Y l While several illustrative forms of the inl vention vhave been disclosed in considerable detail, it is to be understood that manyother variations in the formk and constructionl of thegarment, toV which the features of the Vpresent inventionare applied, maybe made withoutfdeparting from 'the' general spirit and scope of the invention as deiined by the claims. -v 5 A I claimzl.-Agarmentof the class described coin-` prisinga girdle, a pair of elastic bands in the rontportion of said girdle adjacent the 'lork top, saidbands being stitched to saidngirdle along. their ends and their loweredges but being free ofqsaid girdle alongv their upper edges to permit the upper edge of the Vgirdle to yield, an inelastic 'wing member 'superposedover eachtoiisaid'bands, and anfela'stic I 'member attacliedto cachot said wingv members and to the-front portion of said girdle, each of said bands and a related elastic mem'- soy ber extending upwardly at an angle from a f common vertical line at the front of `vthe garment. p

2. A garment of the class described comprising a girdle, a pair offelastic bands' inthe front portion of said girdle adjacent the top,l said kbands being stitched to said girdle'looalong their ends andtheir lower edges but being free of said girdle alongtheir upper edges to permit the upper edge of thegirdle toI yield, an inelastic wing member superf` .s

posed over each of said bands,and an elastic member attached to each of said'wing members and to the front-portion ofsaid girdle,

each of said. bandsand a related elastic memj ber extending upwardly at anangle'from a common vertical Vline ,at the front of the garment, said elastic members being of less depth than said bands.

3. In a. garment ofthe class described a girdle having connected front, side and back" members, a brassire connected Valongits lower edge to said girdle, the front member of said girdle having elastic sections connected along their upper edges to said brassire, wing members, attached to the edges of said front member and superposed over said elastic sections, and elastic members attached to` the tree ends of said wing members and to a portion of said front member.

4. In a garment of the class described'a girdle having connected front, side and back members, a brassire connected along its lower edge to said girdle, the front member of said girdle having elastic sections connected along their upper edges to said brassire, said sections extending along the waist line and permitting expansion along said line,

Wing members superposed over said elastic sections` and attached to said front member adjacent its edges, and elastic members exe tending toward each other from said Wing @'5 members and connected to said front member. Y

5. In a garment of the class described a girdle having connected front, side and back: `members, a brassire connected along its F19 :lower edge to said girdle, the front member s'of said girdle having elastic sections connected alongftheir upper edges to said brassire, Y said sections* extending along the Waist line and permitting expansion along said line, Wing members superposed over said elastic sections, and attached to said front member adjacent its edges, and elastic members eX- tending toward each other from said Wing members vand connected to said front mem- 20 ber said elastic sections and elastic members being directed upwardly' in opposite directions from substantially coincident lines.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification this 16th day of October, 1931. Y f WALDEMAR KOPS.

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