US1499090A - Shoe - Google Patents

Description

June 24 1924.

S. C. WILSON SHOE Ogiginal Filed Sent. 26, 1919 may SIDNEY 0. WILSON, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK,ASSIG1\TOR TO WILSON PROCESS, IN-

. CORPORATED, A CORPOEATION OF NEW YORK.

srroE.

Qriginal application filed September 26, 1919, Serial No. 326,567. Divided and this application filed October 21, 1919.

T 0 all whom ?It may concern:

Be it known that I, SIDNEY C. lVILsoN, a citizen of the United States, and resident of Rochester, State of New York, have in vented an Improvement in Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representing like parts.

The present is a division of my prior application, Ser. No. 326,567, filed 9/26/19, on a novel shoe and process of making the same, the present case being directed to claim the completed shoe as an article of manufacture, I having elected to protect the process in said prior case. The object of the invention is to produce a better fitting, more economical and better wearing shoe than has heretofore been possible, either by welt, McKay or turn methods. In fact, I am enabled to combine,to large extent, the manufacturing economies and advantages incident to the prior methods of making shoes in commercial quantities, without also including the many disadvantages of each particular line. Thus for example, I am enabled to employ the relatively inexpensive and strong McKay shoe construction, utilizing a novel type of insole which is closely similar to the turn shoe sole, while also employing the welt pulling over and lasting machines. In this way. I obtain the best features of the Welt process of shoe making, for fitting, lastings, etc., the flexibility'of the turn shoe, and the economy and simplicity of construction, both in processes, materials, machines and operations, of the McKay shoe.

As explained in my said prior application, I prefer to employ, the novel insole explained and claimed in my copending case, Ser. No. 317,456, filed August 14, 1919.

In the preferred method of manufacturing my improved boot or shoe,I first prepare the insole substantially as shown in said prior application, said insole being preferably of the usual typeof leather insole now generally employed in the manufacture of the welt type of footwear. This insole is channelled on the flesh side by forming a flap, preferably cut from toward the center of the shoe outwardly toward the marginal portion and around the fore part and shank excepting the extreme toe Serial No. 332,222.

portion. This extreme toe portion may or may not be channeled, as desired. On the grain side of the insole, i. e., on the side or surface of the insole intended to be next the foot of the wearer in the completed shoe, I form a channel by splitting in the marginal portions of the insole, preferably leaving the toe portion unchanneled. This inner channel, i. e., in the grain side, is intended to cover the through and through stitch, my present shoe being stitched on a McKay stitcher. The formation of the channel on thefiesh side of the insole, i. e., that next the filling and outs'ole and in the form preferred, believed to be distinctly new, and the provision of channels in the opposite surfaces of anv insole, is also new, and intended to be covered broadly in. said prior case. These channels are preferably staggered somewhat, so that the. between substance will be of proper strength and practically unweakened. In utilizing this type of insole inmy novel shoe, I produce a completed shoe with substantially the full strength of the thickness of the insole for the stitching, holding insole, upper and.0utsole together. In carying out my process I apply the appropriate insole to a last with the grain'side down, this last being of the usual welt last type, viz, without a clinch.- ing plate on the bottom, then assemble an upper thereon,'thereupon pulling over and lasting the shoe. In this lasting process, I prefer to use the welt type of lasting ma chinery, first pulling over the toe, if desired,

and thereafter lasting and tacking the sides and shank of the upper to the insole, and last by lasting tacks partly driven This is the welt method, of lasting, as distinguished from the 'McKay type of lasting, wherein the lasting tacks are driven en'- tirely into .and through the. insole, being clinched on the inner sides of the insole against the metal plate on the bottom of the last. After this lasting, I next secure the lasted upper to the insole flap on the flesh side by any suitable fastenings. Preferably I employ small metallic staples, five or six being set through the edge of the lasted upper and the channel flap. With the shoe in this condition I then pull the lasting tacks by any method, machine or by hand, identically as in the manufacture of welt shoes,

thus leavingthe lasted upper held in lasted position by the staples. The filling may then be applied, although a relatively small amount of fillingis required in my shoe, because the channel flap practically lies down close to the insole and the outsole is applied directly thereto. It will be understood that at the time of lasting, the heel lasting will be completed by nailing down theheel seat and preferably also the toe is nailed down. \Vith the shoe thus ready for the application of the outsole, I may either cement the outsole or the margin of the insole or rely on the adhesive qualities of the shoe filling or filler. Then apply the outsole, then subject the shoe to the sole laying operation. The outsoles are standard McKay outsoles,

preferably with channels formed in the bottom or grain surface and turned back, the outsole being subjected to the laying operation in a welt sole laying machine with these outsole channels turned backwardly. The shoe is now ready to beremoved from the last, or as is the usual term, thelast is pulled,

as in McKay shoe manufacturing. The shoe is now ready to be sewed by through and through stitching, a standard McKay sewing machine, such for example as the wellknown Richardson lIcKay sewer being used. In this step my present invention enables a very close stitch to be set.

, sole stitching may be madealmost twice as closely as in ordinary McKay stitching. In setting these stitches they are formed from the channel in the grain side of the insole through to the channel. in the outer surface of the outsole and for this purpose the insole channel should be turned over before sewing Or this insole channel may be turned over when the insole is first applied to the last. The latter operation I find to be the simpler and preferable and without injury to the leather. After the through and through or McKay stitching, the insole lip is then turned down. I find it advisable to moisten or temper the insole preparatory to this smoothing and turning down operation, as will be more fully explained hereinafter.

The shoe is now complete, but it may be desirable to again use the last or follower, the same last being suitable for use and levelling the shoe on a standard welt leveler, treeing, finishing and completing theshoe in the usual manner. V 7

Referring to the drawings illustrating my improved construction and adapted to carry out my process,

Fig. 1 is a plan View of my improved insole showingthe grainside or the side nextthe foot of th e wearer, channeled to cover the-McKay stitching; h p p w Fig. 2 is aplan view of the reverse side of my improved. insole, i. showing the channel flap,-

Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional iew showin In fact, the out-.

e., the flesh side,

the shoe in different steps during the process of manufacture on the last Fig. & is a cross-sectional fragmentary view; and

Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view showing the completed shoe. I

Referring to the drawings, the prepared insole as designated generally as 1, is first split in on the grain side of the forepart and shank, indicated as 2, 2, forming a flap 3, 3, on each side, extending from the toe portion 4 to the heel seat 5. On the reverse side of the insole, i. e., the flesh side, is also formed the lip 6, 6, cut inwardly from the center of the insole, as indicated at 7, 7, to ward the marginal edge to a depth 8, slightly staggered from the line 2 of the, flap on the grain side. This lip also runs from the toe portion l to the heel part 5, which latter are preferably uncut. The advantages, importance and usefulness of this insole is still further pointed out and claimed in my said copending application, reference to which is hereby made for a fuller description of this feature. lVith the insole thus prepared with double channeled portions I apply the same to a last 10. This last may be of any suitable or desirable type or style, block last, hinge last, or otherwise, and preferably is of the standard wooden type, without clinching plate excepting at the heel, as is generally employed in making welt shoes. This last, therefore, can receive the points of lasting tacks without damage or clinching the same. In applying the insole 1 to the last 10, the flaps 3 may be turned over as indicated at the right of Fig. 3 or may be left as split, as shown at the left of Fig. 3, to be afterwards turned up preparatory for the sewing, as will be explained. In Fig. 3 I have shown both methods. The upper materials 12 are then assembled upon the last and the shoe preferably subjected to the pulling over machine operation. This pulls over the lastv and tacks the toe portion of the insole, whereupon the shoe is further lasted along each side and shank by any welt lastingmachines or methods. I prefer to employ the usual hand method lasting machine, for this operation, the machine pulling over the upper and securing it to the insole and last by driving in temporary lasting tacks 14. This operation is performed exactly as in making welt shoes, by the same machines, same operations and on the same labor bases and rates. With the shoe thus lasted. I then secure the marginal edge of the lasted upper to the inner lip. 6, by permanent securing means 15, see Fig. 3, at the right. These temporary fastenings may be and preferably are thin metallic staples which are set through above the lasting tacks, ina Well known manner, by any desired machine or by hand. Thereu-pon the lasting tacks 14; are removed, exactly as in Welt shoe manufacture, and the surplus portions of the upper and the lip 6 may then be trimmed ofi'. This trimming, however, is entirely optional, as the lip 6 pulls down very closely to the body of the insole 1, and the slight thickness of the upper materials 12 do not form much of a ridge between the two soles. In my shoe, because of this construction and the peculiar form of the lip 6 and its securing staples to the upper, an intermediate filling material can be omitted, although I prefer to apply such a filler 16 on the insole, similar to welt shoe fillers now in general use. With the shoe thus completed, the out-sole 20 is then applied and temporarily secured to the lasted shoe, either by the adhesive qualities of the filler 16 or by additional cement coating. This outsole is of usual McKay type, preferably having cut therein a channel 21 by forming a portion 22 to cover up the Mo- Kay stitching. The shoe may now be levelled and the last 10 is then withdrawn from the shoe and the stitching 25 set, uniting the insole, upper and outsole in a permanent manner. This stitching is formed by the standard types of McKay stitching machines having a sewing horn, as already described. Prior to the stitching operation,

the portions 22 on the outsole are turned backwardly, and if the insole flaps 3 have been left as shown atthe left in Fig. 3, i. e., not turned backwardly as indicated at the right of said Fig. 3, these flaps are turned, the insole being first moistened and tempered. If, however, as is preferred, the flaps 3 have been turned backwardly when the insole was applied to the last, the shoe is then in position for sewing without further operations. After the sewing operation, these insole flaps 3 are cemented and turned downwardly in any suitable manner, preferably by using the machine of my said prior ap-' plication, Ser. No. 326,567. The shoe is then relasted and finished, treed, and completed in the usual manner.

My invention is further described and defined in the form of claims as follows:

A tackless McKa-y shoe having an insole formed on one face with a marginal channel opening outwardly, and on the other face with a marginal channel opening inwardly, both channels extending from the heel seat to a point adjacent the toe portion, said channels being disalined to provide a thickness of material substantially equal to the thickness of the insole between the bottoms of said channels, upper materials lasted to the insole and secured to the insole lip of the inwardly opening channelat points remote from the edge of the insole, and an outsole secured to the insole and upper materials'by through and through stitching lying in the channel opening outwardly, and between the edge of the insole and the lasting securing means the lip of said last named channel being laid down on the insole to conceal the line of stitching.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

SIDNEY C. WILSON.

Witnesses:

JOHN RAINES, Jr., GEORGE R. RAINEs.

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