DE19933902A1 - Skin-compatible cosmetic compositions containing mother of pearl and ascorbic acid to avoid the use of allergenic (petro)chemically-derived agents - Google Patents
Skin-compatible cosmetic compositions containing mother of pearl and ascorbic acid to avoid the use of allergenic (petro)chemically-derived agentsInfo
- Publication number
- DE19933902A1 DE19933902A1 DE19933902A DE19933902A DE19933902A1 DE 19933902 A1 DE19933902 A1 DE 19933902A1 DE 19933902 A DE19933902 A DE 19933902A DE 19933902 A DE19933902 A DE 19933902A DE 19933902 A1 DE19933902 A1 DE 19933902A1
- Authority
- DE
- Germany
- Prior art keywords
- ascorbic acid
- cosmetic formulations
- cosmetic
- pearl
- formulations according
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
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- 229960005070 ascorbic acid Drugs 0.000 title claims abstract description 57
- 235000010323 ascorbic acid Nutrition 0.000 title claims abstract description 55
- 239000011668 ascorbic acid Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 55
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 54
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 42
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 4
- 230000002009 allergenic effect Effects 0.000 title 1
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- 235000000072 L-ascorbyl-6-palmitate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 24
- 239000011786 L-ascorbyl-6-palmitate Substances 0.000 claims description 24
- QAQJMLQRFWZOBN-LAUBAEHRSA-N L-ascorbyl-6-palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O QAQJMLQRFWZOBN-LAUBAEHRSA-N 0.000 claims description 22
- 150000000996 L-ascorbic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 16
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- CSTRPYAGFNTOEQ-MGMRMFRLSA-N (2r)-2-[(1s)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]-3,4-dihydroxy-2h-furan-5-one;octadecanoic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O CSTRPYAGFNTOEQ-MGMRMFRLSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
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- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
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- GHVNFZFCNZKVNT-UHFFFAOYSA-M decanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O GHVNFZFCNZKVNT-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 5
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- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-HZJYTTRNSA-N Linoleic acid Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-HZJYTTRNSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 claims description 4
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- ZADYMNAVLSWLEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N magnesium;oxygen(2-);silicon(4+) Chemical compound [O-2].[O-2].[O-2].[Mg+2].[Si+4] ZADYMNAVLSWLEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000010445 mica Substances 0.000 description 4
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- YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N salicylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 4
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- IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 1-palmitoyl-2-arachidonoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 0.000 description 3
- FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-M 4-hydroxybenzoate Chemical compound OC1=CC=C(C([O-])=O)C=C1 FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- VTYYLEPIZMXCLO-UHFFFAOYSA-L Calcium carbonate Chemical group [Ca+2].[O-]C([O-])=O VTYYLEPIZMXCLO-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 3
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- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
- A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
- A61K2800/436—Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
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Abstract
Description
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft kosmetische Formulierungen, die Perlmutt, Ascorbinsäure oder Ascorbinsäurederivate und weitere Inhaltststoffe enthalten, sowie deren Verwendung.The present invention relates to cosmetic formulations, mother-of-pearl, ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid derivatives and other ingredients, as well as their use.
Die Kosmetik dient bereits seit Jahrtausenden nicht nur der äußerlichen Verschönerung, sondern auch als Pflege. Zusätzlich bedeutet Kosmetik auch immer, auf sichtbare, riechbare und fühlbare Weise der Welt und den Mitmenschen zu begegnen. Diese Art der Begegnung hat mit dem jeweiligen Weltverständnis und dem daraus ableitbaren Menschenbild zu tun. Die Kosmetik ist mit Religionen und Kulturkreisen verbunden, mehr noch sie spiegelt die Grundbefindlichkeiten, wie auch die technischen Möglichkeiten des Menschen wider.Cosmetics have been used for millennia not only for the external beautification, but also as a care. In addition, cosmetics always means to visible, smellable and tactile ways of meeting the world and fellow human beings. This type of encounter has to do with the respective understanding of the world and the derivable image of man. The Cosmetics is connected with religions and cultural circles, even more so it reflects the Basic conditions, as well as the technical possibilities of humans.
Während bis zum Ausgang des Mittelalters Medizin und Kosmetik als Einheit betrachtet wurden erfolgte durch den Wissenszuwachs auf vielen Gebieten die Verselbständigung, auch in der Kosmetik.While until the end of the Middle Ages, medicine and cosmetics considered as one unit were made by the knowledge gain in many areas of independence, too in cosmetics.
So ist vor allem der Aufstieg der Chemie für die Kosmetik von besonderer Bedeutung. Diese liefert in der heutigen Zeit die Substanzen, die in früheren Jahrhunderten kaum oder nur in geringerem Maße zur Verfügung standen. So handelt es sich bei den heutigen kosmetischen Mitteln auch um Produkte, die für die Gesundheit unbedenklich sind und keine "Geheimrezepte" darstellen. Heutige Kosmetika müssen aufgrund der Gesetzeslage völlig unbedenklich sein und sollen die Umwelt möglichst nicht belasten.So, above all, the rise of chemistry for cosmetics is of particular importance. These At the present time, it supplies the substances that were scarcely or only in the past centuries were available to a lesser degree. So it is with today's cosmetic Means also products that are harmless to health and none Represent "secret recipes". Today's cosmetics must be completely due to the law be harmless and should not pollute the environment as possible.
Kosmetische Mittel sind Stoffe oder Zubereitungen aus Stoffen, die dazu bestimmt sind, äußerlich mit den verschiedenen Teilen des menschlichen Körpers, also der Haut, Behaarungssystem, Nägel, Lippen und intime Regionen oder den Zähnen und den Schleimhäuten der Mundhöhle in Berührung zu kommen, und zwar zu dem ausschließlichen oder überwiegenden Zweck, diese zu reinigen, zu parfümieren, ihr Aussehen zu verändern und/oder den Körpergeruch zu beeinflussen und/oder um sie zu schützen oder in gutem Zustand zu halten. Cosmetic products are substances or preparations of substances intended to externally with the different parts of the human body, ie the skin, Hair system, nails, lips and intimate regions or the teeth and the Mucous membranes of the oral cavity to come into contact, and indeed to the exclusive or predominant purpose, to cleanse, perfume, change their appearance and / or to influence the body odor and / or to protect it or in good To maintain state.
So dient die Haut als eine der wichtigsten Träger für die kosmetischen Mittel. Sie übt als größtes Sinnesorgan des Menschen zahlreiche lebenswichtige Funktionen aus. Im Durchschnitt hat ein Erwachsener eine Hautoberfläche von 1,8 qm und ein Hautgewicht von ca. 8 bis 12% des Körpergewichtes. Neben ihrer Schutzfunktion gegenüber Umwelteinflüssen ist die Haut an verschiedenen Stoffwechsel-, Speicherungs- und Regulationsvorgängen des Körpers beteiligt. Sie leistet sowohl mechanischen Schutz vor Druck-, Stoß- und Scherkräften, als auch bietet sie Schutz vor UV-Strahlen. Sie dient zudem der Immunabwehr, der Wärmeregulation und leistet Wahrnehmungs- und Sozialfunktionen.Thus, the skin serves as one of the main carriers for the cosmetic products. She practices as The largest sensory organ of man has many vital functions. in the On average, an adult has a skin surface of 1.8 square meters and a skin weight of about 8 to 12% of body weight. In addition to their protective function against environmental influences the skin is involved in various metabolic, storage and regulatory processes of the skin Body involved. It provides both mechanical protection against pressure, shock and Shear forces, as well as it provides protection against UV rays. It also serves the immune defense, thermoregulation and perform perceptual and social functions.
So dienen kosmetische Mittel für die Haut der Reinigung, der Schweißhemmung der Desodorierung, dem UV-Schutz oder als Make-up. Weitere Wirkungsweisen für die Haut sind Feuchtigkeitsregulation, Hautquellung, Antifaltenwirkung, Hautverträglichkeitssteigerung oder Effizienz gegenüber Hautunreinheiten. Außerdem sollen sie eine belebendes Gefühl, jugendliches Aussehen oder einen verbesserten Tugor bewirken.So cosmetic products for the skin of the cleaning, the sweat inhibition of Deodorization, UV protection or as a make-up. Other modes of action for the skin are Moisture regulation, skin swelling, anti-wrinkle effect, skin tolerance increase or efficacy against blemishes. Besides, they should have an invigorating feeling youthful appearance or an improved tugor effect.
Neben der Körperpflege der Haut ist auch das Haar von entscheidender Bedeutung. Die Reinigung der Haare und der Kopfhaut von körpereigenem Fett, Hautabschilferungen, Schmutz und Gerüchen aus der Umwelt und gegebenenfalls von Rückständen anderer Haarbehandlungsmitteln entspricht einem Grundbedürfnis des Menschen. Zu den kosmetische Mittel zur Haarbehandlung gehören neben den Shampoos auch Haarpflegemittel. Das menschliche Haar ist, sofern keine krankhafte Veränderung vorliegt, gegenüber dem ihm von der Natur gegebenen Zustand nicht zu verbessern. Es ist als stetig nachwachsender Teil der Haut nicht nur für zeitlich unbegrenzte Haltbarkeit vorgesehen. Dies zeigt sich deutlich beim Vergleich des frisch nachgewachsenen Haares mit den unter Umständen bereits mehrere Monate alten Haarspitzen. Während der in der Nähe der Kopfhaut befindliche Teil des Haares eine völlig intakte, nahezu geschlossene Schuppenschicht zeigt, weist das gleiche Haar mit zunehmendem Abstand von der Kopfhaut eine Schwächung, in extremen Fällen sogar den völligen Verlust der Schuppenschicht auf. Wesentliche Ursache für diesen Qualitätsverlust des Haares sind der Einfluß des Sonnenlichtes, mechanische Beanspruchungen durch intensives Kämmen oder Bürsten und unvermeidliche Nebenreaktionen bei chemischen Prozessen im Verlauf von Haarverformungen, Haarfärbungen und insbesondere Blondierungen. Ein Ziel der Haarpflege ist es deshalb, den Naturzustand des frisch nachgewachsenen Haares über einen möglichst langen Zeitraum zu erhalten und im Falle seines Verlustes wieder herzustellen. Seidiger Glanz, geringe Porosität und ein angenehmes, glattes Gefühl gelten als Merkmale für natürliches gesundes Haar. Als Haarpflegemittel wird heute eine Vielzahl von Produkten bezeichnet, deren wichtigste Vertreter Vorbehandlungsmittel, Haarwässer und Haarkurmittel sind. In addition to skin care, hair is also crucial. The Cleaning the hair and scalp of the body's own fat, Hautabschilferungen, Dirt and odors from the environment and possibly from residues of others Hair treatment products meet a basic human need. To the cosmetic Means for hair treatment include shampoos and hair care products. The Human hair, if there is no pathological change, is opposite to that of it Not to improve the given state of nature. It is considered a steadily renewable part of Skin not only intended for indefinite shelf life. This is clearly evident in the case of Comparison of the newly regrown hair with the possibly already several Months old hair tips. During the part of the hair near the scalp shows a completely intact, almost closed cuticle layer, has the same hair increasing distance from the scalp a weakening, in extreme cases even the complete loss of cuticle on. The main reason for this quality loss of hair are the influence of sunlight, mechanical stresses through intensive combing or brushing and unavoidable side reactions in chemical Processes in the course of hair deformations, hair dyes and in particular Blondierungen. A goal of the hair care is therefore, the natural state of the fresh regrown hair over as long a period as possible and in case to restore his loss. Silky shine, low porosity and a pleasant, Smooth feeling are considered characteristics for natural healthy hair. As a hair product is today denotes a variety of products, their main representatives Pre-treatment, hair lotions and hair care are.
Zu den kosmetischen Substanzen, die verwendet werden zählen unter anderem auch die Vitamine. Sie spielen in der heutigen kosmetischen Industrie eine große Rolle sowohl in den haarkosmetischen Präparaten als auch in Vitamincremes für Hautöle, Gesichtsmasken und Lippenstifte.Among the cosmetic substances that are used include the Vitamins. They play a major role in today's cosmetic industry both in the hair cosmetic preparations as well as in vitamin creams for skin oils, facial masks and Lipsticks.
Die Vitamine der F-Reihe, wie Vitamin F-Ethylester oder F-Glycerinester, werden beispielsweise in Hautölen, Gesichtsmasken oder Lippenstiften verwendet. Das in Alkohol lösliche Vitamin F wird als Zusatz in einer Menge von 1 bis 3 Gew.-% für kosmetische Zubereitung in Hautcremes und Haarwässern verwendet. Vitamin F als freie essentielle Fettsäure wird mit einem Gehalt von 1 bis 3 Gew.-% kosmetischen Präparaten zugemischt. Reines Vitamin F ist wasser- und alkohollöslich und wird in Gesichtslotionen, Haarwässern oder Aknepräparaten verwendet.The F-series vitamins, such as vitamin F ethyl ester or F-glycerol ester, become used for example in skin oils, facial masks or lipsticks. That in alcohol soluble vitamin F is added as an additive in an amount of 1 to 3 wt .-% for cosmetic Preparation used in skin creams and hair lotions. Vitamin F as a free essential Fatty acid is mixed with a content of 1 to 3 wt .-% cosmetic preparations. Pure Vitamin F is water and alcohol soluble and is used in facial lotions, hair lotions or acne preparations used.
Synthetisierte Vitamine wie Vitamin KS weisen fungistatische und bakteriostatische Wirkung auf und werden in Haarpflegemitteln verwendet. Vitamin H wird ebenfalls in Haarpflegemitteln verschiedener Art verwendet sowie auch in anderen Körperpflegemitteln verwendet.Synthesized vitamins such as vitamin KS have fungistatic and bacteriostatic effects and are used in hair care products. Vitamin H is also in Haircare products of various kinds used as well as in other body care products used.
β-Carotin, das auch als sog. Provitamin A in der kosmetischen Industrie verwendet wird findet Eingang bei der Herstellung von Haarpflegemitteln und bei der Regulation der Talgdrüsentätigkeit. Es wird zusätzlich bei Mangelerscheinungen der Oberhaut in kosmetischen Präparaten eingesetzt.β-carotene, which is also used as so-called provitamin A in the cosmetic industry is used in the production of hair care products and in the regulation of Sebaceous gland activity. It is additionally used in case of deficiency symptoms of the epidermis used in cosmetic preparations.
Vitamin K3 weist fungistatische und bakteriostatische Wirkung auf und wird für Haarpflegemittel empfohlen.Vitamin K3 has fungistatic and bacteriostatic effects and is used for Hair care products recommended.
Vitamin E (D,L-α-Tucopherol) dient als Antioxidans in Öl- und fetthaltigen Zubereitungen. Vitamin E-Acetat (D,L-α-Tucopherolacetat) wird in Mitteln zur Verbesserung der Hautdurchblutung und der Straffung des Unterzellengewebes verwendet. Es wird in Form von Cremes, Ölen und Badepräparaten hergestellt.Vitamin E (D, L-α-tocopherol) serves as an antioxidant in oil and fat containing preparations. Vitamin E acetate (D, L-α-tocopherol acetate) is used in remedies Skin perfusion and tightening of the subcellular tissue used. It is in the form of Creams, oils and bath preparations made.
Vitamin C (Ascorbinsäure) wird in Zahnpasten und Mundwässern verwendet und dient der Parodontoseprophylaxe. Ascorbinsäurederivate, wie Ascorbinsäurepalmitat oder Ascorbin säurestearat dienen als Synergisten für Antioxidantien, wie sie z. B. in Haarpflege- bzw. Haarfärbemitteln zum Einsatz kommen.Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is used in toothpastes and mouthwashes and is used for Periodontal disease prevention. Ascorbic acid derivatives, such as ascorbic palmitate or ascorbic acid acid stearate serve as synergists for antioxidants, such as. B. in hair care or Hair dyes are used.
Ascorbinsäure wirkt zusammen mit Vitamin E der Oxidation von ungesättigten Fettsäuren entgegen und verhindert so auch eine Lipoperoxydbildung (O. Isla, G. Brubacher, S. Ghisla., B. Kräutler eds.; Vitamine H, G. Tiehme-Verlag, Stuttgart N. Y., 431, 1988). Als Vitamin ist die Ascorbinsäure auch an Metabolismen beteiligt, so z. B. bei der Hydroxylierung von Prolin in der Collagensynthese (J. J. Burns, J. M. Rivers, L. J. Machin eds.; Third Conference on vitamin C, Ann. N. Y. acad. sci., 498 (1987) 1-533).Ascorbic acid works together with vitamin E to oxidize unsaturated fatty acids and thus also prevents lipoperoxide formation (O. Isla, G. Brubacher, S. Ghisla., B. Kräutler eds .; Vitamins H, G. Tiehme-Verlag, Stuttgart, N.Y., 431, 1988). As a vitamin the ascorbic acid also involved in metabolisms, such. As in the hydroxylation of proline in Collagen Synthesis (J.J. Burns, J.M. Rivers, L.J. Machin eds. Third Conference on vitamin C, Ann. N.Y. acad. Sci., 498 (1987) 1-533).
Aufgrund der geringen Stabilität von Ascorbinsäure in kosmetischen Formulierungen ist es häufig erforderlich, stabilisierte Derivate der Ascorbinsäure einzusetzen. Beispiele hierfür seien Natrium-L-ascorbinsäure-monophosphat (JP 07082127, JP 05331020), L- Ascorbinsäure-2-O-D-glucosid (T. Sakamoto et al.; 19th IFSCC Congress, Sydney 1996, Wall. 2, Paper Nr. 14) sowie 5,6-Isopropyliden-L-ascorbinsäure-2-phosphat (JP 08269074) erwähnt. Die DE 197 50 526 A offenbart mehrfach substituierte Ascorbinsäurederivate, die Acylreste Langkettiger Fettsäuren mit C10-C20-Kohlenstoffketten für pharmazeutische und kosmetische Präparate verwenden.Due to the low stability of ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations, it is often necessary to use stabilized derivatives of ascorbic acid. Examples of these are sodium L-ascorbic acid monophosphate (JP 07082127, JP 05331020), L-ascorbic acid-2-OD glucoside (T. Sakamoto et al., 19th IFSCC Congress, Sydney 1996, Wall 2, Paper No. 14 ) and 5,6-isopropylidene-L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate (JP 08269074). DE 197 50 526 A discloses multiply substituted ascorbic acid derivatives which use acyl radicals of long-chain fatty acids with C 10 -C 20 -carbon chains for pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations.
Perlmutt ist ein natürliches Produkt, das in Meeresmuscheln und Meeresmuschelablagerungen zu finden ist. Der Perlmutt ist in einer Aragonitstruktur auskristallisiert. Er besteht zu 96 bis 98 Gew.-% aus Calciumcarbonat und zu 2 bis 4 Gew.-% aus Conchagenen. Diese Conchagene sind dem Kollagen nahestehende Substanzen, die aus Chitin und Proteinen bestehen. Die Proteine besitzen einen hohen Anteil an saurer Asparaginsäure und Serin. Die Verwendung von gemahlenem Perlmutt ist aus indianischen Hochkulturen wie beispielsweise den Mayas bekannt, die das feingemahlene Perlmutt mit unterschiedlichen Lehmsorten als Packung auf entsprechende Körperregionen verwendeten.Mother-of-pearl is a natural product found in marine shells and marine shell deposits can be found. The mother of pearl is crystallized in an aragonite structure. He exists to 96 to 98 wt .-% of calcium carbonate and 2 to 4 wt .-% of conchagens. These conchages are collagen-related substances consisting of chitin and proteins. The Proteins have a high content of acid aspartic acid and serine. The usage of ground mother of pearl is from Native American civilizations such as the Mayans Known to put the finely ground mother of pearl with different types of clay as a pack used appropriate body regions.
Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung ist die Bereitstellung neuer kosmetischer Formulierungen, welche eine verbesserte Hautverträglichkeit besitzen. Die Aufgabe wurde durch die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Formulierungen, welche Perlmutt und Ascorbinsäure oder Ascorbinsäurederivate enthalten, gelöst.Object of the present invention is the provision of new cosmetic Formulations which have improved skin tolerance. The task was by the cosmetic formulations according to the invention, which mother of pearl and Ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid derivatives dissolved.
Dementsprechend handelt es sich bei dem Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung um kosmetische Formulierungen, die 1,5 bis 35 Gewichtsprozent Perlmutt, 2 bis 6 Gewichtsprozent Ascorbinsäure oder Ascorbinsäurederivate aus der Gruppe von Ascorbinsäurepalmitat, Ascorbinsäurestearat, Ascorbinsäureoleat, Ascorbinsäurelaurinat, Ascorbinsäuremyristinat, Ascorbinsäurelinolat oder Ascorbinsäurecaprinat, jeweils bezogen auf die Gesamtmenge an Komponenten der Formulierungen enthalten und weiterer Inhaltsstoffe, aus der Gruppe von Emulgatoren, Stabilisatoren, natürlichen Ölen, kosmetischen Ölen, Fette, Wachse, Siliconöle, Siliconölderivate, Solubilisatoren, Feuchthaltemittel, Wirkstoffe, Konsistenzgeber, Gelbildner, Antioxidantien und/oder Konservierungsmittel.Accordingly, the subject of the present invention is cosmetic formulations containing 1.5 to 35% by weight of mother of pearl, 2 to 6 Ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid derivatives from the group of Ascorbic acid palmitate, ascorbic acid stearate, ascorbic acid oleate, ascorbic acid laurinate, Ascorbic acid myristinate, ascorbic acid linolate or ascorbic acid caprate, in each case obtained to the total amount of components of the formulations and more Ingredients from the group of emulsifiers, stabilizers, natural oils, cosmetic oils, fats, waxes, silicone oils, silicone oil derivatives, solubilizers, Humectants, active ingredients, bodying agents, gelling agents, antioxidants and / or Preservative.
In bevorzugten Ausführungsformen werden
kosmetische Formulierungen mit einem Anteil von 20 bis 30 Gewichtsprozent Perlmutt und
2,5 bis 6 Gewichtsprozent Ascorbinsäure oder Ascorbinsäurederivate und 77,5 bis 64
Gewichtsprozent an weiteren Inhaltsstoffen, berechnet auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung aller
Inhaltsstoffe verwendet, oder
kosmetische Formulierungen mit einem Anteil von 25 bis 30 Gewichtsprozent Perlmutt und
3,5 bis 5 Gewichtsprozent Ascorbinsäure oder Ascorbinsäurederivate und 71,5 bis 65
Gewichtsprozent an weiteren Inhaltsstoffen, berechnet auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung aller
Inhaltsstoffe verwendet.In preferred embodiments
cosmetic formulations containing from 20 to 30% by weight of nacre and from 2.5 to 6% by weight of ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid derivatives and from 77.5 to 64% by weight of further ingredients, calculated on the total composition of all ingredients, or
cosmetic formulations containing from 25 to 30% by weight of nacre and from 3.5 to 5% by weight of ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid derivatives and from 71.5 to 65% by weight of further ingredients, calculated on the total composition of all ingredients.
In einer besonderen Ausführungsform der vorliegenden Erfindung werden kosmetische Formulierungen auf Wasser- oder Ölbasis hergestellt, die Perlmutt und bevorzugt Ascorbinsäurederivate aus der Gruppe von Ascorbinsäurepalmitat, Ascorbinsäurestearat, Ascorbinsäureoleat, Ascorbinsäurelaurinat, Ascorbinsäuremyristinat, Ascorbinsäurelinolat oder Ascorbinsäurecaprinat enthalten.In a particular embodiment of the present invention are cosmetic Water or oil based formulations, the mother of pearl and preferred Ascorbic acid derivatives from the group of ascorbic acid palmitate, ascorbic acid stearate, Ascorbic acid oleate, ascorbic acid laurinate, ascorbic acid myristinate, ascorbic acidelinolate or ascorbic acid caprinate.
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der vorliegenden Erfindung werden kosmetische Formulierungen auf Wasser- und/oder Ölbasis hergestellt, die Perlmutt und besonders bevorzugt Ascorbinsäurepalmitat, Ascorbinsäurestearat oder Ascorbinsäureoleat enthalten.In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention made of water and / or oil based cosmetic formulations, the mother of pearl and particularly preferably ascorbic palmitate, ascorbic acid stearate or ascorbic acid oleate contain.
In einer anderen bevorzugten Ausführungsform der vorliegenden Erfindung werden kosmetische Formulierung auf wasser- und/oder ölfreier Basis hergestellt, die Perlmutt und bevorzugt Ascorbinsäure enthalten.In another preferred embodiment of the present invention cosmetic formulation produced on a water and / or oil-free basis, the mother of pearl and preferably ascorbic acid.
Als Ascorbinsäurederivate werden solche einfach oder mehrfach substituierten Derivate aus der Gruppe von Ascorbinsäurepalmitat, Ascorbinsäurestearat, Ascorbinsäureoleat, Ascorbinsäurelaurinat, Ascorbinsäuremyristinat, Ascorbinsäurelinolat oder Ascorbinsäure caprinat verwendet.As ascorbic acid derivatives are those mono- or polysubstituted derivatives of the group of ascorbic acid palmitate, ascorbic acid stearate, ascorbic acid oleate, Ascorbic acid laurinate, ascorbic acid myristinate, ascorbic acid linolate or ascorbic acid used caprinate.
Bevorzugt sind Ascorbinsäurederivate aus der Gruppe von Ascorbinsäurepalmitat, Ascorbinsäurestearat oder Ascorbinsäureoleat.Ascorbic acid derivatives from the group of ascorbic acid palmitate are preferred, Ascorbic acid stearate or ascorbic acid oleate.
Als Emulgatoren können beispielhaft Polyglycerinfettsäureesteer, Ethoxylate von Fettsäuren, Sorbitanfettsäureester, Phosphorsäureester von Fettsäuren, Phospholipide oder Glycerinmono stearat verwendet werden. Examples of suitable emulsifiers are polyglycerol fatty acid esters, ethoxylates of fatty acids, Sorbitan fatty acid esters, phosphoric acid esters of fatty acids, phospholipids or glycerol mono Stearate be used.
Als Stabilisatoren können beispielhaft Magnesium und Aluminiumsalze von Fettsäuren, Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, MGDA oder Antioxidantien wie α-Tocopherol, oder Gallsäure und ihre Salze oder Ester verwendet werden.Examples of stabilizers which may be mentioned are magnesium and aluminum salts of fatty acids, Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, MGDA or antioxidants such as α-tocopherol, or Bile acid and its salts or esters.
Beispielhaft seien für natürliche Öle Jojobaöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Erdnußöl, Mandelöl, Macadarmianusöl, Maiskernöl, Traubenkernöl oder Rizinusöl erwähnt.Examples of natural oils are jojoba oil, sunflower oil, peanut oil, almond oil, Macadarmianus oil, corn kernel oil, grape seed oil or castor oil mentioned.
Als kosmetische Öle werden beispielhaft Isopropylsäureester von Fettsäuren, Paraffinöl oder Neutralöl verwendet werden.Examples of cosmetic oils are isopropyl acid esters of fatty acids, paraffin oil or Neutral oil can be used.
Zu den Isopropylsäureester von Fettsäuren zählen unter anderem Isopropyllaurat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat oder Isopropylpalmitat.The isopropyl acid esters of fatty acids include isopropyl laurate, among others Isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate or isopropyl palmitate.
Als kosmetischen Wirkstoffen die verwendet werden können zählen unter anderen, Bisabolol, α-Tocopherol, Aloe Vera, Algenextrakt, Rectinol, Panthenol oder Ferulsäure.As cosmetic active ingredients which can be used include, among others, bisabolol, α-tocopherol, aloe vera, algae extract, rectinol, panthenol or ferulic acid.
Als Feuchthaltemittel seien beispielhaft Glycerin, Sorbit, Xylit oder Polyethylenglycol erwähnt.As humectants are exemplified glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol or polyethylene glycol mentioned.
Beispielhaft seien für Konservierungsmittel p-Hydroxybenzoesäureester, Imidazolidinyl- Harnstoff, Sorbinsäure, Bronopol, Dehydracetsäure, Benzoesäure oder Salicylsäure erwähnt.Exemplary preservatives p-hydroxybenzoic acid, imidazolidinyl Urea, sorbic acid, bronopol, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid.
Antioxidantien werden in der Fettphase eingesetzt. Hierzu zählen z. B. Butylhydroxytoluol oder Butylhydroxyanisol.Antioxidants are used in the fat phase. These include z. B. butylhydroxytoluene or butylhydroxyanisole.
Als Gelbildner seien beispielhaft Fettalkoholethoxylate, Fettsäurealkylolamide, ethoxylierte Glucoseester oder Kochsalz erwähnt.Examples of suitable gel formers are fatty alcohol ethoxylates, fatty acid alkylolamides, ethoxylated Glucose ester or saline mentioned.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Formulierung werden topisch auf die Haut aufgetragen. Beim Auftragen bildet sich ein Film aus Perlmutt, Ascorbinsäure oder Ascorbinsäurederivaten und gegebenenfalls weiteren Wirkstoffen, der zu einer Beruhigung des Sinnesorgans führt, Hautverunreinigung können klärend mit den erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Formulierungen beeinflußt werden. Diese Eigenschaften ermöglichen den Einsatz der erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen als Hautpflegemittel bei funktionellen Veränderungen der Haut, z. B. bei trockener Haut mit einer lang anhaltenden Wirkung.The cosmetic formulation of the invention are applied topically to the skin. When applied, a film of mother-of-pearl, ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid derivatives is formed and optionally further active ingredients, which leads to a calming of the sense organ, Skin contamination can be clarified with the cosmetic according to the invention Formulations are affected. These properties allow the use of the formulations according to the invention as a skin care product in functional changes the skin, z. B. in dry skin with a long-lasting effect.
Die kosmetischen Formulierungen können auf wäßriger oder ölhaltiger Basis hergestellt werden, in Form von Pudern, Gesichtsmasken, Gesichtsmake-up, Lotionen, Seifen, Cremes, Haarwässern, Badesalzen, Badezusätzen, Duschgelen, Lippenstiften oder Ölen, oder aber auf wasserfreier Basis in Form von Pudern, Seifen, Gesichtsmasken, Gesichtsmake-up, Haarwässern Lippenstiften oder Lotionen.The cosmetic formulations can be prepared on an aqueous or oily basis in the form of powders, face masks, face makeup, lotions, soaps, creams, Hair lotions, bath salts, bath salts, shower gels, lipsticks or oils, or on anhydrous base in the form of powders, soaps, face masks, face makeup, Hairwash lipsticks or lotions.
Nachstehend sind einige Formulierungsbeispiele für unterschiedliche Applikationsformen der erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Formulierung aufgeführt, die nicht eine abschließende Aufzählung darstellen. Below are some formulation examples for different application forms of cosmetic formulation according to the invention, which is not a final Represent enumeration.
Die Natriumseife aus Talk, Kokosöl und das Perlmutt wurden gemischt, bei 70° Celsius geschmolzen und nach Abkühlung in einem Kneter mit den restlichen Inhaltsstoffen vermischt und portioniert abgefüllt.The sodium soap made from talc, coconut oil and mother-of-pearl were mixed at 70 ° Celsius melted and after cooling in a kneader with the remaining ingredients mixed and portioned bottled.
Die Inhaltsstoffe mit Ausnahme der spezifischen Zusätze, Farbstoffe, Parfümöle, Wasser und Ascorbinsäurepalmitat wurden gemischt und bei 70° Celsius geschmolzen. Nach Abkühlung werden die verbleibenden Zusätze durch Verknetung der Masse zugemischt. Es erfolgt die Portionierung.The ingredients except the specific additives, colors, perfume oils, water and Ascorbic acid palmitate was mixed and melted at 70 ° C. After cooling the remaining additives are added by kneading the mass. It takes place Portioning.
Die Darstellung der Lotion erfolgte durch einfaches Vermischen der Substanzen.The presentation of the lotion was carried out by simply mixing the substances.
Alle Komponenten werden gemischt und konfektioniert. All components are mixed and assembled.
Alle Komponenten wurden gemischt und konfektioniert.All components were mixed and made up.
Die aufgeführten Inhaltsstoffe wurden jeweils einzeln gesiebt, um gleiche Korngröße zugewährleisten und Klumpenbildung vorzubeugen. Die Mischung wurde danach miteinander gemischt und portioniert. The listed ingredients were each screened individually to same grain size to ensure and prevent lump formation. The mixture was then together mixed and portioned.
Die Komponenten werden mit Ausnahme des Ginkoextraktes sowie eines Wasseranteils von 30 Gew.-% gemischt. Daran anschließend werden das restliche Wasser mit dem Extrakt untergemischt.The components are with the exception of the Ginkoe extract and a water content of 30% by weight mixed. Then the remaining water with the extract mixed in.
Glycerolmonostearat 60, Cetylalkohol, mittelkettige Triglyceride und Weißes Vaselin wurden im Wasserbad auf etwa 60°C erhitzt und anteilsweise mit der auf die gleiche Temperatur erwärmten Mischung von Macrogol-1000-glycorolmonostearat, Propylenglykol und Wasser versetzt. Die Creme wurde bis zum Erkalten ständig gerührt und das verdunstete Wasser ergänzt. Anschließend wurde die Creme bei engster Spalteinstellung durch einen Dreiwalzenstuhl gegeben.Glycerol monostearate 60, cetyl alcohol, medium chain triglycerides and white petrolatum were heated in a water bath to about 60 ° C and partially with the same temperature heated mixture of Macrogol 1000 glycorol monostearate, propylene glycol and water added. The cream was stirred constantly until it cooled and the evaporated water added. Subsequently, the cream was at tightest gap setting by a Three-roll chair given.
Alle Inhaltsstoffe wurden innig gemischt, gesiebt und konfektioniert.All ingredients were thoroughly mixed, sieved and confectioned.
Alle Inhaltsstoffe wurden innig gemischt, gesiebt und konfektioniert.All ingredients were thoroughly mixed, sieved and confectioned.
Alle Inhaltsstoffe wurden innig gemischt, gesiebt und konfektioniert.All ingredients were thoroughly mixed, sieved and confectioned.
Alle Inhaltsstoffe wurden innig gemischt, gesiebt und konfektioniert. All ingredients were thoroughly mixed, sieved and confectioned.
Armicatinktur und Rosmarinöl wurden nach und nach mit dem Magnesiumcarbonat und der Häfte des Perlmutts verrieben. Nach dem Trocknen siebte man und vermischte mit den restlichen Inhaltsstoffen intensiv.Armature tincture and rosemary oil were gradually mixed with the magnesium carbonate and the Half of mother-of-pearl rubbed. After drying, one sifted and mixed with the remaining ingredients intense.
Mit Ausnahme des Lavendelextraktes wurden alle Inhaltsstoffe durch Erwärmen im Wasserbad geschmolzen und vermischt. Beim Abkühlen auf ca. 55°C wurde das Lavendelextrakt eingerührt. With the exception of the lavender extract, all ingredients were removed by heating in Water bath melted and mixed. Upon cooling to about 55 ° C was the Lavender extract stirred.
Das Pulver wurde gemischt und mit Wasser versetzt und als streichbarer Brei auf die Gesichtshaut aufgetragen. Nach 10-15 min. wurde mit warmen Wasser abgewaschen.The powder was mixed and mixed with water and spreadable as a spread on the Facial skin applied. After 10-15 min. was washed off with warm water.
Die Inhaltsstoffe wurden innig gemischt und portioniert. The ingredients were intimately mixed and portioned.
Die Inhaltsstoffe wurden innig gemischt und konfektioniert.The ingredients were intimately mixed and formulated.
Das Parfümöl wurde auf die in breiter Schicht ausgebreiteten Salzmischung mit einem Zerstäuber gleichmäßig verteilt. Anschließend wurde in einer Mischertrommel gründlich durchgemischt, nochmals in flacher Schicht ausgebreitet und am folgenden Tag abgepackt. The perfume oil was applied to the broad-spread salt mixture with a Atomizer evenly distributed. Subsequently, in a mixer drum was thoroughly mixed, spread again in a shallow layer and packaged the following day.
Die Rohstoffe wurden auf 70°C erwärmt verschmolzen und homogen verrührt. Daran anschließend wurde die fertige Mischung bei circa 5°C über dem Schmelzpunkt der Mischung in angewärmte Lippenstiftformen gegossen.The raw materials were heated to 70 ° C merged and stirred homogeneously. it then the final mixture was at about 5 ° C above the melting point of the mixture poured into warmed lipstick molds.
Die Inhaltsstoffe werden gemischt und konfektioniert. The ingredients are mixed and formulated.
Lecithin und Weizenkeimöl wurden in einem erwärmten Wasserbad vermischt und mit Carotin versetzt. Daran anschließend wurde die Ascorbinsäure bzw. Ascorbinsäurestearat, Perlmutt, gesiebtes Sojamehl, Trockenmilchpulver, Germall, Kolloidkaolin und p-Hydroxy benzoesäuremethylester hinzugegeben und alles vermischt.Lecithin and wheat germ oil were mixed and heated in a heated water bath Carotene is added. Subsequently, the ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid stearate, Mother-of-pearl, sieved soybean meal, dried milk powder, Germall, colloidkaolin and p-hydroxy Benzoic acid methyl ester added and mixed everything.
Die Maske wurde vor Gebrauch mit Wasser oder Milch durchfeuchtet und für 20 Minuten quellen gelassen. Danach wurde mit Wasser ein Brei angerührt, der auf die Haut aufgetragen wurde und nach 15 bis 20 Minuten mit Wasser wieder abgewaschen wurde.The mask was moistened with water or milk before use and for 20 minutes allowed to swell. Thereafter, a slurry was mixed with water, which was applied to the skin was washed off with water after 15 to 20 minutes.
Claims (10)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE19933902A DE19933902A1 (en) | 1999-06-15 | 1999-07-22 | Skin-compatible cosmetic compositions containing mother of pearl and ascorbic acid to avoid the use of allergenic (petro)chemically-derived agents |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE29910271U DE29910271U1 (en) | 1999-06-15 | 1999-06-15 | Active ingredient component for the cosmetic area |
| DE19933902A DE19933902A1 (en) | 1999-06-15 | 1999-07-22 | Skin-compatible cosmetic compositions containing mother of pearl and ascorbic acid to avoid the use of allergenic (petro)chemically-derived agents |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| DE19933902A1 true DE19933902A1 (en) | 2000-12-21 |
Family
ID=8074716
Family Applications (2)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE29910271U Expired - Lifetime DE29910271U1 (en) | 1999-06-15 | 1999-06-15 | Active ingredient component for the cosmetic area |
| DE19933902A Withdrawn DE19933902A1 (en) | 1999-06-15 | 1999-07-22 | Skin-compatible cosmetic compositions containing mother of pearl and ascorbic acid to avoid the use of allergenic (petro)chemically-derived agents |
Family Applications Before (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE29910271U Expired - Lifetime DE29910271U1 (en) | 1999-06-15 | 1999-06-15 | Active ingredient component for the cosmetic area |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| DE (2) | DE29910271U1 (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2863163A1 (en) * | 2003-12-04 | 2005-06-10 | Oreal | COMPOSITION, IN PARTICULAR COSMETIC, COMPRISING EXTRACTS OF FAUGERE AND NACRE |
| WO2007031168A1 (en) * | 2005-09-14 | 2007-03-22 | Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien | Cultures pearls powdered in a cosmetic agent |
Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE69003612T2 (en) * | 1989-07-11 | 1994-02-17 | Ryan International Ltd | Fuel briquettes. |
| DE69110633T2 (en) * | 1990-12-12 | 1995-12-07 | Oreal | Liquid, two-phase cosmetic composition containing at least one dialkyl phthalate, insoluble particles and a density balancing agent. |
-
1999
- 1999-06-15 DE DE29910271U patent/DE29910271U1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1999-07-22 DE DE19933902A patent/DE19933902A1/en not_active Withdrawn
Patent Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE69003612T2 (en) * | 1989-07-11 | 1994-02-17 | Ryan International Ltd | Fuel briquettes. |
| DE69110633T2 (en) * | 1990-12-12 | 1995-12-07 | Oreal | Liquid, two-phase cosmetic composition containing at least one dialkyl phthalate, insoluble particles and a density balancing agent. |
Non-Patent Citations (3)
| Title |
|---|
| Derwent-Abstract 1997-435727/41 zu BR 9504529 A * |
| Derwent-Abstract 1997-481280/45 zu CN 1121418 A * |
| Patents Abstracts of Japan. C-463, 1987, Vol.11, No.379, JP 62-148320 A * |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2863163A1 (en) * | 2003-12-04 | 2005-06-10 | Oreal | COMPOSITION, IN PARTICULAR COSMETIC, COMPRISING EXTRACTS OF FAUGERE AND NACRE |
| WO2007031168A1 (en) * | 2005-09-14 | 2007-03-22 | Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien | Cultures pearls powdered in a cosmetic agent |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| DE29910271U1 (en) | 2000-10-26 |
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