summary: Swedish Sweet Spice Buns; shaping looks complex but isn’t; sometimes it pays to use commercial yeast; information about Bread Baking Babes;

Bread Baking Babes (BBB): Bullar (Swedish Buns)

[T]here may be as many cinnamon bun recipes as there are bakers out there.
– Fredrik Nylén, Sweden Sverige | Cinnamon buns – Swedes bake them, eat them, love them. You?
[W]hat’s great about kanelbullar isn’t just the taste, it’s the recipe’s versatility. You can roll them into classic rolls, or twist them, or even bake an entire loaf, cutting a decorative pattern into it before baking to let the butter and cinnamon filling ooze out.
– Anna Brones, kitchn | 10 Fika Recipes So You Can Take Your Coffee Break Like a Swede

For December, Cathy chose the perfect recipe for the BBBabes to make. The really great thing about these buns is that two of them can be put into the freezer for us to have for Christmas morning’s breakfast.

Brilliant!!

[K]anelbullar might be the most iconic of the fika recipes. They are found in essentially every single cafe in Sweden, and most people have memories of them from an early age. The dough is spiced with a little cinnamon, which is what makes for the distinct Swedish cinnamon bun taste.
 
– Anna Brones, kitchn | 10 Fika Recipes So You Can Take Your Coffee Break Like a Swede
Swedish Cinnamon Buns or Kanelbullar are buns with multiple layers of soft and fluffy bread and aromatic sweet buttery filling in between. […]
Making kanelbullar or Cinnamon buns is so easy.
 
– Bincy, MerryBoosters | Swedish Cinnamon Buns Recipe (Easy Kanelbullar Recipe)
De här kan man ju inte motstå när de ligger på kakfatet! [You can’t resist these when they’re on the cake plate!]
 
– Fredrik, Fredrik’s Fika | Kanelbullekakor [cinnamon bun cookies]
I love Swedish cuisine, and I love Fika. And the popular accompaniment to coffee at any Fika are Swedish Cinnamon Buns. What is Fika?
Fika is the Swedish concept of “a coffee break”; a pause in the day for a tea or coffee, with a small bite to eat.
 
– Thanh, Eat, Little Bird | Swedish Cinnamon Buns

Here is how things went with the BBBabes’ December 2024 recipe:

BBB bullar (Swedish Buns) diary:

5 November 2024, 15:53 When Cathy suggested that we make Swedish buns for December, she mentioned that she didn’t think we had ever made Swedish Buns as a group. I think the closest we came to making Swedish buns was in 2020 with Lussekatter, the saffron buns made for St. Lucia Day (13 December)

Some of you may have made Swedish buns before so I’m providing different options to get the creative juices flowing:
  • Sweet or savory filling
  • Sourdough or yeast
  • Sweet or savory topping
  • Shaping technique
 
– Cathy, in message to BBBabes

This looks really fun – and beautiful! What a good choice!

But savoury instead of sweet? Hmmm. Because I love cardamom, I’ll be surprised if I don’t choose that! (Although, saffron in Lussekatter is so delicious too.) Also, I just read a post about chai-bullar, and another calling for almond paste in the filling. So many possibilities!!

6 November 2024, 14:23 Now, about that shaping….
With the short side facing you, fold the top of the dough to meet the bottom edge. You should now have a 7” x 20” rectangle. Gently press the edges.
 
Cut the dough into 7″ long strips, approx. 12 total. A pizza wheel works well for this, but a sharp knife will also work. I used a bench scraper but I think a pizza wheel will work better.
 
Shape the buns using the desired shaping method
 
– BBB December 2024 recipe
To shape the rolls, hold one of the strips between you thumb and index finger. Twist and stretch the strip and wrap it around your thumb and forefinger twice. Remove your thumb, and take the remaining strip of dough and pull it over top of the shaped roll and tuck it into the place where your thumb used to be. Place the shaped roll onto the baking sheet. Repeat with the rest of the dough strips.
 
– Karen’s Kitchen Stories | Kardemummabullar | Swedish Cardamom Rolls
Start with one strip of dough. Using your pizza wheel, make a slit up the center of the dough strip until there is just about ¾ of an inch at the top. The strip of dough will look like a tall pair of pants. Leaving the dough strip on the countertop, twist each “leg” a few times using the thumb and forefinger of each hand. Loosely wrap one of the twisted legs up and around the top of the pants, followed by the other leg, securing the bottom of the last leg by coming up and through the center of the bun.
 
– Kristi, True North Kitchen | Traditional Swedish Cardamom Buns (Kardemummabullar)
Roll dough into an 11×8-inch rectangle, with one long side closest to you. Using a pastry wheel or sharp knife, cut dough lengthwise into 15 strips (about ¾ inch wide each). Holding up one end of 1 strip vertically, gently pull dough in increments until strip is 22 inches long, being careful to keep an even thickness throughout dough so it does not tear. Holding bottom end of strip between index and middle fingers and thumb of one hand, loosely wrap dough strip three times around fingers of that same hand, overlapping dough slightly. Place thumb of same hand over overlapped dough strands to secure; wrap remaining end of dough perpendicularly, between index and middle fingers, and around overlapping dough strands to form a knot-like shape, tucking loose end under bottom of finished bun as you remove your fingers.
 
– Bake From Scratch | Baking School In-Depth: Swedish Buns
Using a pastry wheel or pizza cutter, cut into 18 strips (about 8×¾ inches each). Holding a strip with one end in each hand, twist strip 5 times, gently stretching until it is nearly double its original length. Grabbing one end of twisted strip between middle 2 or 3 fingers and thumb of same hand, loosely wrap dough around fingers twice, overlapping slightly. Place thumb of same hand over overlapped dough strands to secure; wrap remaining end of dough perpendicularly around overlapping dough strands to form a knot-like shape, tucking loose end under bottom of finished bun.
 
Bake From Scratch | Swedish Cinnamon Buns

Wow! I just looked at Karen’s post. Her shaping looks perfect and, in spite of what she suggested, not at all as if there will be any unexpected unravelling.

It certainly does look beautiful. But complex…. (And here I thought that Lussekatter shapes were complex!)

Traditional Shapes for Lussebullar (Lucia buns)

I’m relieved that some sites have pictures! I need any help I can get!

4 December 2024 at 20:11 I contemplated making Wild Swedish buns, but when I hinted at it and saw the crestfallen look on the “soft fluffy bread” lover’s face, I promised to make these using commercial yeast.

But I do plan to use a milk wash, rather than an egg wash (decent eggs are stupidly expensive right now). But maybe the resident critic neeeeeeds a sugar glaze instead.

12 December 2024, 14:50 This morning, we were talking about what kind of filling I should use for the Swedish buns. T immediately said, “Do what you do with Lucia cats!” So. Cardamom and saffron it is. Maybe I will shape a couple like Lucia cats. Because tomorrow is Santa Lucia Day.

14 December 2024, 08:49 Well. Surprise. Surprise. {cough} Guess what I didn’t make yesterday….

I WAS going to make luciacat dough (saffron and cardamom). And then for the filling for shaping, slather butter, brown sugar, cardamom, and salt. But then I looked more closely at one of the recipes that the BBB recipe is based on:

The Bake from Scratch filling is interesting!!

Filling:
1/2 cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup (110 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar
4 teaspoons (8 grams) ground cinnamon
2+1/2 teaspoons (5 grams) ground cardamom
1+1/4 teaspoons (2.5 grams) ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon (1 gram) ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
 
– Bake from Scratch Jan/Feb 2024 | Swedish Cinnamon Buns

What do you think? Should I stick with my original plan? Or does this pepper/ginger/cinnamon/cloves/cardamom idea seem like a good one?

Never mind. I’ll answer my own question.

I’ll go with the second option. How can I not? The spice mix is too close to one of my favourite cookies with its magic ingredient of black pepper: Bakerbot’s ginger cookies

13:16 Mixing the dough went pretty well. But, oh my, that dough is significantly stiffer than our usual bread dough! I might be forced to add just a bit more water when I add the salt in a half hour or so.

13:58 I added a little more water (just 10 grams or so) and the dough is still quite firm. Is it supposed to be that way??

rather a little bit too sticky than too dry
 
– Fredrik, YouTube: Recipe: Swedish cinnamon buns

Clearly not!

14:08 I added a little yoghurt (along with the whey that had separated in the container), as well as some water. The dough is still on the stiff side but let’s see how it is after it has rested.

16:22 I’m staring at various pages again to find out how on earth to shape these buns. Several of them are laughably incomprehensible. Especially one video (I can’t remember where it was now) where the person painstakingly rolled out the dough, slathered it with the filling, folded it in thirds, carefully cut it, and then quick as a flash, twisted one of the strips and knotted it, saying “See? It’s easy” I had to stop looking for a moment because I was laughing so hard I couldn’t see. Happily, “Eat, Little Bird” has a very nice set of photos showing how to create the knots.

image from
Eat, Little Bird | Swedish Cinnamon Buns

17:49 Shaping wasn’t nearly as difficult as I thought it was going to be! (Although, I didn’t do quite the complex winding and twisting that Karen did. )

Because of the butter in the filling, I decided to put the shaped buns into a buttered pyrex baking dish. We don’t want to lose any of that butter!!

I know. We’re not supposed to use pyrex for baking bread. Or am I wrong about that? Whatever. It SHOULD work. Shouldn’t it?

Also, I completely forgot to add salt to the spice mixture. RATS. But I just had a brilliant idea. Just before putting the buns in the oven, I’ll sprinkle some of our coarse finishing salt on top. Instead of pearl sugar that we don’t have. (Hmmm. Is this a good idea?? I guess time will tell about exactly how brilliant the idea is.)

18:50 Yay!! They’ve doubled. The oven is now turned on.

I’m going to pretend that I haven’t noticed that some of my knots came undone while they were rising.

Note to self: DON’T forget the salt!!

19:16 I’m so proud of myself; I remembered the salt! I used Camargue salt. I hope we’ll still be able to see the crystals!

Ha. I forgot the milk wash though. Oops.

19:55 The buns look beautiful!! And they smell wonderful. T is going to be so thrilled.

We were so excited about how the buns looked that we decided we neeeeeeded to have them for dessert. We chose the ones that were in the pyrex bowls.

Wow!! They’re perfect. Even though they got a little charred on top when warming them in the toaster oven.

We love the little sprinkling of salt to compliment the sweetness of the buns and the filling. We also love the spice mix. And most of all, we love the soft, fluffy texture.

I’ll say it again; they’re perfect.

The rest of the buns are still a little warm so we had to leave them on the counter overnight. But. We were a tiny bit nervous.

Our brave little Texan was justifying her existence by tormenting a foolish mouse who came in from the cold. The furry black one thinks the mouse had come inside to play and was mercilessly catching it briefly and tossing it in the air, watching as it raced, staggered, or played dead, then she would catch it again to toss again. (It WAS cold, windy and a few degrees below freezing outside.) We put a metal cookie sheet on top of the pan and hoped that the terrorized mouse would be unable to climb up to the counter. (I confess that it does feel cruel. But I know that neither of us can catch the mouse and even if we did, we couldn’t put it back outside to freeze OR dispatch it.) We’re hoping that the mouse’s friends and family will somehow learn of its plight, learn their lesson, and avoid coming in here at all.

Yesterday morning (after removing from the dining room floor the poor little creature that must have had a heart attack trying to escape), we warmed two buns more carefully and had them with bacon, and scrambled eggs for T and a boiled egg for me. With chives from the garden!! (Even though we’ve now had a hard freeze.)

Delicious!! Delicious!!

This recipe is a keeper!! We LOVE these buns!! Thank you, thank you, thank you for choosing such a wonderful recipe, Cathy!

Here is the December 2024 BBB recipe that we were given. And here is what I did to it:

Swedish Sweet Spice Buns
based on the recipe for Swedish Cinnamon Buns in Bake From Scratch Magazine’s (Jan/Feb 2024)

Starter:

• 60 grams 100% whole wheat “no-additives” flour
• 60 grams water
• spoonful (around 20 grams) of Jane Mason whole wheat starter from the fridge

Actual Dough:

• 76 grams unsalted cold butter
• 180 grams boiling water + 32 grams instant milk powder
• 50 grams granulated sugar
• 3 grams cardamom, ground
• 6 grams active dry yeast
• 440 grams unbleached “no-additives” all-purpose flour
• All of above starter
• 10 grams seasalt + 10 grams water (+ large spoon of yoghurt plus the whey that was floating in the container)

Filling:

• 57 grams unsalted butter, soft
• 75 grams light brown sugar
• 3 grams ground cinnamon
• 1 gram ground cardamom
• 3 grams ground ginger
• 1 gram ground cloves
• 1 gram ground black pepper

Topping:

• soupçon coarsely ground seasalt

1. Starter: Late in the evening, the day before the day you will be baking the buns: Put the starter, whole wheat flour and water into a smallish bowl. Mix with a wooden spoon until the flour is stirred in well. Cover the bowl with a plate and set aside overnight in the oven with only the light turned on (because in December, it’s quite cool in the kitchen).
2. Actual Dough: On the morning of the day you will be baking the buns:
   • Cut the butter into smallish pieces and place in a bowl large enough for the dough to triple. Add boiling water and stir/whisk until the butter is melted.
   • Whisk in sugar and ground cardamom. Before proceeding, check the temperature of the buttered water on the inside of your wrist. It should NOT be much above body temperature.
   • When the liquid is no warmer than baby bottle temperature, whisk in the yeast until it has dissolved.
   • Place a sieve over the bowl and dump the all-purpose flour in to sift. (You want to remove any lumps of glue that might have slipped in after the struggle to open the bag. With some of our bags of flour, there have been at least 5 or 6 suspicious looking lumps left in the bottom of the sieve.) Add the starter. Use the dough whisk (or wooden spoon) to whisk it all together, making sure that all the flour is absorbed. Notice that the dough seems quite dry. Cover the bowl with a plate and allow to rest for about 30 minutes, hoping that the dough will soften.
3. adding the salt: In a small bowl, whisk the salt into 10 grams of water. Pour the salt mixture over the dough. Because the dough is still quite dry, pour in some whey from the plain yoghurt container in the fridge. Also add a bit of yoghurt and a splash or two of water.
4. Kneading: Use one of your hands to squoosh the salt water into the dough; use the other hand to steady the bowl – this way you always have a clean hand. At first the dough might feel a bit messy, but suddenly, it will seem more like dough than weirdly folded, slimy glop. Keep folding it over onto itself until it is relatively smooth.
5. stretching and folding: About 30 minutes after adding the salt, run your working hand under water. Reach down along the side of the bowl and lift and stretch the dough straight up and almost out of the bowl. Fold it over itself to the other side of the bowl. Turn the bowl and repeat four or five times more. Stop if t’s a little difficult to stretch the dough up any more. Cover with a plate and leave on the counter for about 30 minutes.
6. Repeat the above step 3 or 4 times (Robertson says to do this 4 times in all). You’ll notice that after each time, the dough feels significantly smoother.
7. Proofing: Making sure that the bowl is covered with a plate, leave the dough in the oven with only the light turned on (or if the kitchen is hot, on the counter) to allow the dough to almost double.
8. Prepare the filling: When the dough is close to being ready to shape, put the softened butter into a smallish bowl. Cream sugar and spices into the butter. Set aside to check on the dough
9. Test to see if it’s ready to shape: A good way to tell if the dough is ready to shape is to run your index finger under water, then poke a hole in the center of the dough. If the hole disappears immediately, the dough still needs to rise. If there is a slight whooshing sound and the hole remains in place, alas, the dough has probably over-risen. If the hole very very gradually begins to close, the dough is ready to shape.
10. Prepare the pan: Butter a rectangular pyrex cake pan.
11. Shaping:
    • Scatter a dusting of all-purpose wheat flour on the board and gently release the dough from the bowl onto the board. (When the dough is ready to shape, it will fall out of the bowl cleanly.) Use a rolling pin to flatten the dough into a largish rectangle that is not more than 2cm thick. Slather the top of the rectangle with the filling, then fold the rectangle in thirds like a business letter. Use the rolling pin to flatten the new rectangle, then with the dough scraper (or a pizza wheel) cut the rectangle into strips. I made 10 strips that were about 18cm long and 3cm wide. (Next time, I will make 12 strips with this amount of dough.)
    • Gently pull one of the strips to stretch it until it is about 6cm longer: Be careful not to tear the dough. If it seems like the dough doesn’t want to be stretched, let it rest for 5 minutes or so and then try again.
    • Gently twist the strip.
    • Hold one end of the twisted trip between your thumb and forefinger. Loosely wrap the strip around your hand to tie it into a knot. Tuck any ends underneath. Place the knot in the buttered dish. Repeat with the rest of the strips, leaving a good amount of space between each knot. If there isn’t room in the dish for all the strips, butter a couple of pyrex bowls and place a knot in each one.
    • Cover the knots with a dampened tea towl and allow them to rise to almost double.
12. Preheat the oven: About half an hour before baking, put a cast-iron pan onto the middle rack, and turn the oven to 375F.
13. Baking: Bake the buns for 20 to 30 minutes until they are golden brown and the internal temperature is around 205F.
14. Cooling: Remove the container(s) of buns to a footed rack and allow them to cool completely before serving; they are still cooking internally when first removed from the oven!
    Set the bread on a rack and (this is one of the hardest parts of bread baking) keep your hands off that beautiful crusty bread for at least an hour, or until it is completely cool. You will be dying to cut into that gorgeous warm bread, the crust crackling as it cools, but remember that it’s still cooking inside; the crumb is still jelling, and the crust still developing. The crust will soften partway through the cooling time, but it will crisp again as it cools completely.
    – Thomas Keller, ‘Breads: Cooling’, Bouchon Bakery
    If you wish to serve warm buns (of course you do), reheat them after they have cooled completely: To reheat any uncut bread, turn the oven to 400F for 5 minutes or so. Turn the oven OFF. Put the bread into the hot oven for about five minutes. This will rejuvenate the crust and warm the crumb perfectly.

Notes:

:: Starter: If I had ever had success with using our wild yeast starter in enriched dough AND courage to try try try again, I would have relied on our Jane Mason starter. Alas, I don’t have the courage. So I decided to use it as a poolish. Because why not?

:: Cardamom: If you are using cardamom, I urge you to grind it yourself. Jars of pre-ground cardamom are not only ridiculously expensive, the cardamom is also quite faded in flavour. Instead, follow the advice from America’s Test Kitchen:
[C]rack open whole green cardamom pods and remove the seeds yourself. Coarsely grind the seeds using a spice grinder or mortar and pestle.
 
– America’s Test Kitchen, Kanelbullar (Swedish Cinnamon Buns)

:: Topping: The BBB recipe calls for an eggwash (I forgot) and pearl sugar. I have no idea where to get pearl sugar. But, I also suspect I may have omitted it anyway. I chose, instead, to add a soupçon of coarse seasalt. This is partly because of using unsalted butter, and partly because we love salted caramel.

And why did I use the word, soupçon? It’s because I just learned its literal French meaning in my DuoL French lessons. I love that a soupçon is a suspicion! It’s the perfect description for how much salt to put on top!

SOUPÇON nom masculin
xiie siècle. Issu du latin suspectio, de même sens, dérivé de suspicere, « regarder de bas en haut ; suspecter, soupçonner », lui-même composé à partir de sub, « sous, dessous », et specere, « regarder ».
– Dictionnaire de l’Académie française | 9e edition: soupçon
le soupçon
MASCULINE NOUN
suspicion
 
un soupçon de a dash of
 
– Collins French-English Dictionary: English Translation of “SOUPÇON”

:: Why no volume measures: I always measure bread ingredients – particularly the salt – by weight. There really is no other way to go.
WEIGHING VERSUS MEASURING […] [H]abits are hard to change. Your mother and grandmother probably didn’t use scales, and you may even have their measuring cups in your kitchen drawer. But using a scale will change the way you cook and bake for the better in many ways.
 
– Thomas Keller, ‘Throw out your measuring cups’, Bouchon Bakery
Kitchen Scale An absolute must, the single tool that is not optional. Weighing your ingredients, as opposed to measuring by volume, is far more accurate, and this is the first tool I recommend any baker purchase. Measuring flour (and salt!) by volume using measuring cups is incredibly inaccurate
 
– Maurizio Leo, ‘the Must-have tools’, The Perfect Loaf
[S]alts differ widely, so that a given volume of some salts will weigh less than others. For example, fine table salt is generally heavier per volume than coarse salt; and even within those two categories, there are large variations.
 
– Naomi Duguid, The Miracle of Salt

 

• Bread Baking Babes December 2024 recipe
  » Cathy, Bread Experience: Swedish Buns — Yeast and Sourdough Options for Sweet and Savory Flavors
• Information and Tools
  » Bake from Scratch: Baking School In-depth: Swedish Buns (for shaping, scroll down to “Fill and Form”); Swedish Cinnamon Buns
  » Eat, Little Bird: Swedish Cinnamon Buns
  » Farmhouse on Boone: Sourdough Swedish Cinnamon Buns Recipe
  » Fredriks Fika: Kanelbullekakor (på svenska); Sweden Sverige Cinnamon buns (Fredrik Nylén’s cinnamon buns recipe in English)
  » Half & Halv: Chai-Flavored Bullar
  » Karen’s Kitchen Stories: Kardemummabullar | Swedish Cardamom Rolls
  » kitchn: 10 Fika Recipes So You Can Take Your Coffee Break Like a Swede
  » MerryBoosters: Swedish Cinnamon Buns Recipe (Easy Kanelbullar Recipe)
  » My Diverse Kitchen: We Knead To Bake #11 : Kanel Snegle/ Kanelbullar (Swedish Cinnamon Snails/ Rolls)
  » True North Kitchen: Traditional Swedish Cardamom Buns (Kardemummabullar)
  » YouTube: America’s Test Kitchen: How to Make Kanelbullar (Swedish Cinnamon Buns); Casual Cookery: CARDAMOM BUNS | SWEDISH Kanelbullar | Cinnamon Buns Recipe | ASMR Cooking; Cecilia Tolone: KARDEMUMMABULLAR | Swedish Cardamom Buns
  » TastingTable: Flour Guide – Everything you need to know about types of flour
  » Calculator Site: Cups to Grams (various commonly used baking ingredients)
  » CoolConversion: Volume to Weight Converter – Cooking (various commonly used baking ingredients)
  » Little Spoon Farm: Baking Conversion Chart (volume to grams for various ingredients)
• recipes from OUR kitchen:
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  » blog recipes index
  » recipes index

Swedes really love their kanelbullar. So much, they decided to dedicate a whole day to its existence. Now they celebrate cinnamon rolls every year on the 4th October, since 1999. You can find shopping window decorations and special offers in café windows, telling you it’s “kanelbullens dag“, cinnamon bun day.
      If you are in a café that day to have a fika (Swedish for “having a coffee break”), you simply have to eat one. Refusing an invitation to eat one and instead choosing a princess cake or chocolate ball, might be considered as culturally offending
 
– Matthias Kamann, Hej Sweden | Original Swedish Cinnamon Buns Recipe – How to Make “Kanelbullar”
On October 4, 2019 [Sweden’s National Cinnamon Bun Day], I ate my first Swedish cinnamon bun at a London location of Fabrique, a Stockholm-based bakery chain. The bun was beautiful: a browned swirl of soft, fluffy, lightly sweetened bread infused with cardamom, filled with a buttery cinnamon sugar mixture, and sprinkled with white sugar pearls. […] But Swedes don’t confine their consumption of cinnamon buns, called kanelbullar, to a single day. They’re a favorite feature of the daily (even twice- or thrice-daily) social ritual known as fika, which consists of coffee and a snack enjoyed with friends, family, or colleagues. To call it a mere coffee break is to ignore the Swedes’ reverence and affection for the concept.
 
– Andrea Geary, America’s Test Kitchen | Sweden’s Iconic Cinnamon Buns
Functioning as both a verb and a noun, the concept of fika is simple. It is the moment that you take a break, often with a cup of coffee, but alternatively with tea, and find a baked good to pair with it. […] “Ska vi fika?” “Should we fika? […] [E]very Swede knows exactly what it means: “Let’s take a break […]” To truly fika requires a commitment to making time for a break in your day, the creation of a magical moment in the midst of the routine and the mundane.
 
– Anna Brones, Johanna Kindvall, Fika: The Art of The Swedish Coffee Break, with Recipes for Pastries, Breads, and Other Treats, p3

She is exhausted after her all-night ordeal

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