An early start along the northern edge of Lake Como, the water flat and silver in the morning light, then over the border into Switzerland and down Lake Lugano. Lugano feels like Italy at first. The language, the buildings, the cafés, the easy pace all familiar, only the flag differs. To begin, a long morning coffee at Grand Café al Porto, no rush. A few "sciure" follow suit, draped in fur and quiet designer labels, elegant without trying, slipping into their habitual seats as if the café...