Riding Giants

I was able to attend Riding Giants @ Sundance Film Festival (it was this year's opening film) and can only say it is a must see movie - there is a magic in this extraordinary surfing documentary that fires up your heart & soul; dreams & spirit. Give thanks to the genius of Stacey Peralta (Dogtown & Z-boys) and his uncanny ability to brilliantly capture the life & death drama that is part of big wave riding. I especially enjoyed the shots at Half Moon Bay and the notoriouus surf area, Mavericks, discovered by local big wave surfing legend Jeff Clark. Of course there is so much more, but I loved the movie and the audience seemed to approve as well, giving it a 3 minute standing ovation.

There have been a few decent feature films about surfing ('Big Wednesday', 'Endless Summer' and its sequel) and quite a few clunkers ('Blue Crush,' 'Point Break') that are still respectable for strong surfing footage and homages to the cult within the culture. But I've yet to see a film that surpasses the scope of 'Riding Giants,' which simultaneously traces the history of big wave riding from its Polynesian origins to its high-tech present, provides the audience with some of the most breathtaking footage recorded on film (much of it archival), and opens a window into the peculiar allure of high risk activities to men and women of a certain mindset, as well as into the evolution of surfing's own unique subculture of big wave riders.

The narrative revolves around three legends of big wave riding: Greg Noll, who pioneered the swells of the North Shore of Oahu and Waimea Bay, Jeff Clark, who discovered the Northern California break known as Mavericks and ushered Californian surfing into big wave territory, and Laird Hamilton, the undisputed ubermensch of the sport from the turn of the century to the present. Noll and Clark are framed reverently by director Stacy Peralta, but Hamilton is the star of the show, and rightly so: he is an all but perfect athlete, combining superior physical conditioning with an understanding of physics and wave behavior earned from a lifetime surfing the big breaks of the surf capital of the world, the Hawaiian islands. Because of his high-profile marriage to model/pro-volleyball star Gabrielle Reese and his magazine cover-friendly looks, Laird Hamilton has been a little overexposed in the media of late, but, matter of factly, the guy more than lives up to the hype, and he doesn't seem to be motivated by anything other than his love of surfing. Hamilton is all the more appealing for his apparent humility--he repeatedly insists that his acclaim also belongs to his teammates/companions, who tow him by jet-ski into waves no mortal could catch with the traditional 'paddle-in' method and then sweep in to pick him up before he gets caught in the wave wash of the next big one--embodying the free-spirited, 'because it's there' attitude shared by most elite high-risk athletes and the true ethos of hardcore surfers, who live for the ride and see the trappings of the culture (parties, chicks, sponsorship, etc.) as incidental if not entirely unimportant.

Certainly the most appealing aspect of the film is its portrayal of old school, hardcore surf culture, which has always been about the fraternal bond that crops up between people who share a common passion and are willing to devote everything to its pursuit. Peralta and co-writer Sam George manage to persuasively present the nearly monastic social order of the first surf devotees, contradicting the traditional 'beach bum' image associated with surfing in popular culture. If you happen to be someone who thinks of high-risk sporting activities as venues for purposeless thrill-seeking, 'Riding Giants' may give you the necessary insight into at least one extreme sport that, at its highest level, transforms mere mortals into epic heroes.

The presentation is on DVD, widescreen, with excellent picture and sound.

"Riding Giants" traces the history of surfing, at least in and around the USA, beginning about 1000 years ago, when history tells us early Hawaiians began using some type of board to ride the surf. But the movie begins in earnest in the 1950s, when 20-something surfers like Greg Noll became what was commonly called "beach bums" and surfed every day, all day, if they could.

An interesting fact presented is the influence of the "Gidget" movies with Sandra Dee, and similar movies which followed. While they presented an unrealistic, fantasy viewpoint of the surfing scene, they became the catalyst for the surfing explosion. Withing a few years from the late 1950s to the early 1960, the number of surfers went from a few thousand to a few million.

One of the producers of "Riding Giants" is Laird Hamilton, professional surfer, generally considered the best of the big wave surfers. The movie ends with him, profiling how he got into surfing as a young boy, and how he and his buddies invented the modern method of big wave surfing, being towed into a wave by jet ski, which also became the rescue boat. With this method they are now able to surf big, fast moving waves that are impossible to access the conventional way. Plus, this has allowed them to use much smaller boards, similar to snow boards, for more speed and agility.

Overall a very well-made and fascinating look at surfing. My favorite was Greg Noll who today is a heavy, round-faced older man in his 60s, but many film clips from the 50s and 60s showed him in action, considered the best of his generation. His present day interviews are both enlightening and very funny.

RIDING GIANTS (2004) **** Documentary filmmaker Stacy Peralta's homage to big wave surfing captures the vicarious thrills and zen-like existence of the sport and its laid-back yet talented athletes and enthusiasts with some truly wonderful archival footage of practically home movies of some of the most famous board runners as well as some amazing shots of pulse-pounding, adrenaline fueled breath-takingly awesomely fierce swells of skyscraper size globally in pristine waters and paradise beachheads that ultimately will have would-be wannabes running for the incoming tides of long-ago youth. Cowabunga!

Wow! Stacy Peralta has followed up Dogtown and Z-Boys with an equally stunning documentary about the history of the big-wave surfing culture in America. Piecing together insider archival footage along with interviews from surfing legends, we are transported into the daring and free-spirited life of the early pioneers whose sheer passion for the sport spawned an industry that today touches the lives of millions.

It's getting to know these icons and their stories that gives the film its warmth. You can feel the respect Peralta has for this group as we hear accounts of Greg Noll striding from a pack of awestruck fellow surfers on the beach to singularly challenge 50-foot swells off Hawaii's North Coast. Or Jeff Clark, surfing the outrageously dangerous Maverick off the northern California coast all alone for 15 years before it was discovered and became the surfing destination in California. And the storybook history of Laird Hamilton, today's surfing icon. Hearing Greg Noll reverently refer to Hamilton as the best surfer ever sent chills up my spine.

(As an aside, Noll, Clark and others were at the Sundance screenings. Noll humbly described himself as an old, over-the-hill surfer. He was deeply moved by the audience reception of him and film. Both he and Clark were as likable in person as they were in the film.)

Riding Giants pays homage to these extraordinary athletes while at the same time rewarding us with an insight into the magnitude and terrifying power of the waves they seek to conquer, the gut-wrenching vertical drops required to get into them, and the almost unfathomable combination of adrenaline and fear that the surfers experience each time they take on a monster swell.

All this, and the movie has more. For those of us that didn't live in California in the 60's, we get an insight into the impact of surfing on American pop culture. (And, to my surprise, the impact of the movie Gidget on surfing!) Peralta also weaves in a primer on some of the technical aspects of the sport and the history of innovation in equipment. I'm not a surfer, but like the rest of the Sundance audience, I was absolutely captivated by this film. Peralta is staking his claim as the Big Kahuna of American documentaries.