L'aile ou la cuisse

If it takes me to explain to you that the French take their cuisine very seriously, you probably have just arrived on this planet and seek somebody to take you to our leader. Sure, cheese that reek like dead mans feet, stuffed duck or escargot (that's snails, in case you live in the States) are not everybody's cup of tea. But taste is debatable. Quality is not and for things concerning (culinary) quality, you need not look further than La Belle France. It doesn't come as a huge surprise hence that many French films concern themselves with the kitchen and even less of a surprise that master-comedian (and passionate chef in his own rights) Louis de Funes would eventually take the topic on.

Publicist Charles Duchemin (de Funes) is the bane of all French restaurants: His food-guide bestows the much coveted Duchemin-Stars upon the restaurants (or takes them away if warranted – which is more often the case than not). Having some of the keenest taste-buds in all of France, Duchemin takes it upon himself to "test" the individual restaurants, usually disguised as a harmless (looking) old lady or an American tourist. But Duchemin has a nemesis of his own: scheming Jacques Tricatel (deliciously slimy Julien Guiomar), industrial food-producer that delivers virtually artificial food to chains and roadside Inns. Being challenged to a TV-interview by Tricatel, Duchemin (after having almost been 'poisoned' by eating some of Tricatels produces) has lost his sense of taste, yet must save French cuisine somehow.

It is my firm opinion that de Funes later films were also his best. This goes for "The Mad Adventures of Rabbi Jacob", his second-to-last feature "The Cabbage Soup" as well as "L'aile ou la cuisine", filmed shortly after de Funes had recovered from a massive heart-attack. Perhaps it was his failing health and age that made the comedian (slightly) move away from his hyper-paced screen-persona to a more subtle humour (despite all the typical trademarks still being present, albeit tuned down). In the past, de Funes sidekicks had a hard time not being paled out by de Funes performance, but in his later years you could tell, that the comedian timed his humour so as to give the other cast-member some breathing space. In this case comedian Coluche, playing de Funes son and reluctant partner-in-crime, who would rather be a circus-clown than a connoisseur. Like de Funes, Coluche has mastered the art of physical slapstick without turning the gags into an infantile farce. The scene, where he inherently mimics a waiter with a nervous disorder, is pure slapstick gold, turning it almost into an art-form.

Apart from being one of de Funes last few films, it does have a rather depressing prophecy. If you have travelled through France and Belgium, the hearts of European cuisine in recent days, you will have noticed the abundance of fast-food-joints in the cities and highway-stops. You may even have tried the grub there (I refuse to call it food) and, if you have seen the film, you may have looked around, looking whether you'd spot the "Tricatel"-logo anywhere, perhaps printed on the thigh of a chicken – if indeed chicken it was that they were serving.

Still, the film remains a delight and a clean 8/10

one of comedies who reminds, again, the splendid art of de Funes. a art who is not defined by gags or small angry man but for the science to collaborate with the partner. Coluche does a great work as part of couple with Louis de Funes and that is the key of the charming situations and fine humor. Julien Guiomar does the perfect portrait of the enemy of mister Duchemin. and the hilarious situations are the ideal package for the illustration of conflict between tradition and new technology. a film about food and about joy of life. memorable scenes and great challenges to food industry from our days. that detail does it great. and, sure, the talent of a great actor who creates not exactly characters but universes.

Saw this in an un-subtitled version 8/6/15. Monsieur DeFunes is in fine form as a champion of traditional French gastronomy farcically at war with "industrial" cuisine. The pairing with Coluche works better than a bottle of Bordeaux alongside a plate of bifteck frites. DeFunes' Donald Duck persona complements Coluche's sad clown, the son of DeFunes' character secretly pursuing a career in greasepaint under le big top. The whole thing must have worked for me because I laughed. Here is a very entertaining movie. After having seen several DeFunes movies, I find myself asking once again, why didn't this talent catch on in America, other than very modestly for his work in "Rabbi Jacob"? (1973) The guy was funny. Coluche was not going for the big laughs in the movie here, instead playing in convincing fashion a sympathetic character, as the script intended. I want to see more of his movies, too. We Americans may not appreciate his humor the way the Europeans did, but this film clearly displays his ability as an actor in possession of considerable emotional depth.

I first saw "L'aile ou la cuisse" as a little kid, with my nose glued to the screen, and when I saw it again as a grown man, my children and grandchildren gathered around my feet, stroking my white beard and smoking a pipe, it was amazing how many of the jokes I could still remember verbatim. To me Louis de Funès is one of the greatest comedic actors, and I could sit for hours just watching a loop of him when he goes "Ooh!", his content "petit bonhomme" face exploding in a brief moment of heartfelt, yet premeditated rage; unfortunately he often squandered his talent in formulaic money makers such as the "Gendarme of St. Tropez" series (not that I wouldn't love those either, but they are more "good for a few laughs" than "must - see classic"). In "L'Aile ou la cuisse", finally, Funès talent is matched with a decent director and story line, allowing him to remain true to his schtick while gaining depth (not a lot, but just enough).

"L'aile ou la cuisse" is this type of film: if one day I should watch it and not find it funny anymore, then I know that it's time for me to leave this earth. Thank you Louis!

An excellent comedy which deals with the theme of traditional cuisine versus industrial cuisine. Traditional is personified by the Guide Duchemin (skit on Guide Michelin ) and industrial cuisine by Tricatel ( which I must assume is a skit on Jacques BOREL ) whose awesome director was played by Julien Guiomar. Louis de Funès plays the Michelin man who in secret and under various disguises tests out restaurants who in spite of this recognise who it is. Duchemin ( DE FUNES ) has a son (played by the late great French comedian Michel Colucci or "Coluche" who gives the impression of carrying on in the same line as his father but in reality is more interested in circus-clowning ! All actors give magnificent performances and the plot is brilliant. A most enjoyable moment to be spent, and now it's available on DVD in France at rock-bottom price !