Riding Giants

There's been a spate of recent surfing movies that I seem to haphazardly run across without advance warning. I caught this treasure on digital cable this week and what a pleasant surprise it was! The focus is on the pioneers of big wave surfing from the 60's Greg Noll to our current Laird Hamilton, from Waimea Bay to Mavericks to Jaws. Hell, I could watch a movie just about Laird Hamilton - one of this generation's great athletes - so the rest is just gravy. There's loads of good surfing mixed in with interviews of past and present surfing stars, in pleasant, relaxed and unpretentious fashion. Of all the surfing movies I've seen this tells the big-wave story the best, and I think it's my favorite. Fantastic musical score. Enjoy!

The presentation is on DVD, widescreen, with excellent picture and sound.

"Riding Giants" traces the history of surfing, at least in and around the USA, beginning about 1000 years ago, when history tells us early Hawaiians began using some type of board to ride the surf. But the movie begins in earnest in the 1950s, when 20-something surfers like Greg Noll became what was commonly called "beach bums" and surfed every day, all day, if they could.

An interesting fact presented is the influence of the "Gidget" movies with Sandra Dee, and similar movies which followed. While they presented an unrealistic, fantasy viewpoint of the surfing scene, they became the catalyst for the surfing explosion. Withing a few years from the late 1950s to the early 1960, the number of surfers went from a few thousand to a few million.

One of the producers of "Riding Giants" is Laird Hamilton, professional surfer, generally considered the best of the big wave surfers. The movie ends with him, profiling how he got into surfing as a young boy, and how he and his buddies invented the modern method of big wave surfing, being towed into a wave by jet ski, which also became the rescue boat. With this method they are now able to surf big, fast moving waves that are impossible to access the conventional way. Plus, this has allowed them to use much smaller boards, similar to snow boards, for more speed and agility.

Overall a very well-made and fascinating look at surfing. My favorite was Greg Noll who today is a heavy, round-faced older man in his 60s, but many film clips from the 50s and 60s showed him in action, considered the best of his generation. His present day interviews are both enlightening and very funny.

Riding Giants is an incredible documentary detailing the history and stories of three influential big-wave surfers, Gregg Noll, Jeff Clark, and Laird Hamilton. Stacy Peralta did an amazing job taking on the role of director and should be congratulated for doing such a brilliant job. The structure of the film is edited brilliantly and works perfectly with the narration, interviews, animation and surfing footage. The music soundtrack just adds to the overall satisfaction of watching this film, making Riding Giants brilliant viewing. Personal highlights include any of Greg Noll's comments, what with his straight-to-the-point frankness, Laird Hamilton's footage at Teahupoo, and the out-takes at the end of the movie. But really this entire film is one big, recommended highlight that comes highly recommended if you have the opportunity to see. It's a shame it isn't more well known, but it is a gem deserving of attention. 10/10

There have been a few decent feature films about surfing ('Big Wednesday', 'Endless Summer' and its sequel) and quite a few clunkers ('Blue Crush,' 'Point Break') that are still respectable for strong surfing footage and homages to the cult within the culture. But I've yet to see a film that surpasses the scope of 'Riding Giants,' which simultaneously traces the history of big wave riding from its Polynesian origins to its high-tech present, provides the audience with some of the most breathtaking footage recorded on film (much of it archival), and opens a window into the peculiar allure of high risk activities to men and women of a certain mindset, as well as into the evolution of surfing's own unique subculture of big wave riders.

The narrative revolves around three legends of big wave riding: Greg Noll, who pioneered the swells of the North Shore of Oahu and Waimea Bay, Jeff Clark, who discovered the Northern California break known as Mavericks and ushered Californian surfing into big wave territory, and Laird Hamilton, the undisputed ubermensch of the sport from the turn of the century to the present. Noll and Clark are framed reverently by director Stacy Peralta, but Hamilton is the star of the show, and rightly so: he is an all but perfect athlete, combining superior physical conditioning with an understanding of physics and wave behavior earned from a lifetime surfing the big breaks of the surf capital of the world, the Hawaiian islands. Because of his high-profile marriage to model/pro-volleyball star Gabrielle Reese and his magazine cover-friendly looks, Laird Hamilton has been a little overexposed in the media of late, but, matter of factly, the guy more than lives up to the hype, and he doesn't seem to be motivated by anything other than his love of surfing. Hamilton is all the more appealing for his apparent humility--he repeatedly insists that his acclaim also belongs to his teammates/companions, who tow him by jet-ski into waves no mortal could catch with the traditional 'paddle-in' method and then sweep in to pick him up before he gets caught in the wave wash of the next big one--embodying the free-spirited, 'because it's there' attitude shared by most elite high-risk athletes and the true ethos of hardcore surfers, who live for the ride and see the trappings of the culture (parties, chicks, sponsorship, etc.) as incidental if not entirely unimportant.

Certainly the most appealing aspect of the film is its portrayal of old school, hardcore surf culture, which has always been about the fraternal bond that crops up between people who share a common passion and are willing to devote everything to its pursuit. Peralta and co-writer Sam George manage to persuasively present the nearly monastic social order of the first surf devotees, contradicting the traditional 'beach bum' image associated with surfing in popular culture. If you happen to be someone who thinks of high-risk sporting activities as venues for purposeless thrill-seeking, 'Riding Giants' may give you the necessary insight into at least one extreme sport that, at its highest level, transforms mere mortals into epic heroes.

I was able to attend Riding Giants @ Sundance Film Festival (it was this year's opening film) and can only say it is a must see movie - there is a magic in this extraordinary surfing documentary that fires up your heart & soul; dreams & spirit. Give thanks to the genius of Stacey Peralta (Dogtown & Z-boys) and his uncanny ability to brilliantly capture the life & death drama that is part of big wave riding. I especially enjoyed the shots at Half Moon Bay and the notoriouus surf area, Mavericks, discovered by local big wave surfing legend Jeff Clark. Of course there is so much more, but I loved the movie and the audience seemed to approve as well, giving it a 3 minute standing ovation.