La conquête de l'Everest

I did not know this documentary existed until I found it at Kathmandu airport as I left Nepal recently. What fascinated me was the amazing changes that I noted, particularly on the West Buttress and some other places in the 56 years since this was filmed. It also amazed me how long it took them to find a way thru the Ice Fall. I was born a couple of weeks prior to Hillary's summit and I summited Everest myself on May 23, 2009 within a few days, give or take 56 years from the first summit. In fact, our climb was documented by Discovery Channel and will be aired in November, 2009. The experience is difficult to explain, but when I saw this video with the highest quality cinematography, all using presumably large, heavy cameras and 16 MM film or larger, it is truly amazing to watch. The music is typical of the 50s but that adds to its historic nature. The documentary is wonderfully accurate, is not overly dramatic as many of today's efforts are (such as Discovery's Everest series) so its really a pleasant review of an awesome achievement over 56 years ago.

To know more about Griffith Pugh, the scientist who helped make the successful summit of Everest possible, read "Everest, The First Summit," written by his daughter, Harriet Tuckey. Not only will you learn about the science involved in studying physiology and the use of oxygen, you will also learn a lot about the psychology and personality of the men who participated in the historic 1953 climb.

Another great resource is the book by Wade Davis, "Into the Silence,The Great War, Mallory and the Conquest of Everest."

The mistakes made because of unwillingness to accept new ideas and scientific resources resulted in many failed attempts and deaths in the early attempts to climb Everest. This book is a GREAT history book and psychological review of the men involved.

So we all remember the names of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay but for me, the plaudits here have to go to the expedition cinematographer George Lowe who manages to colourfully capture in considerable detail the treacherous and perilous journey they all undertook in 1953 to become the first people to top Mount Everest. The narrative takes us from the planning stages in London that built upon the previous (failed) attempts at this summit. Then they must work the logistics - how to get tonnes of essential supplies to base camps as high up as any European mountains are at their peaks. The lack of oxygen, relentless winds and the crippling cold are again well photographed as I found myself looking for a cardigan to settle down to the latter stages as the hostility of this avalanche-prone symbol of the power of nature kicked in and it started to tire of it's gadfly visitors taking shelter in the flimsiest of tents whilst eating freeze-dried food that would make a modern day "Pot Noodle" look like à la carte dining! Meredith Edwards' narration and Arthur Benjamin's rousing score also contribute well to add to the sense of true adventure and although we start this film celebrating the Coronation of the late Queen Elizabeth II with some spoiler newspaper deadlines, the production still manages to inject some jeopardy into the trek. Over seventy years later, this film still shows off a sense of the dedication and commitment of men climbing it because, well, "because it is there".

Many climbers have made to the top of Mt. Everest; many with fantastic video or film. What makes this film truly extraordinary is:

* This was a 1953 expedition. No one had been close to the summit; much was unknown. They had to laboriously create the path and lay the ropes&ladders used by subsequent expedition. * They didn't have the advantages of modern tent materials, climbing clothing nor gear; yet they dragged a film camera up most of the way. * Hunt, the expedition leader gives the best explaination of the climbing path and camp positions that I've seen. * The perilousness of the South Col is very evident (the expedition was delayed an extra day due to a storm). This is interesting in retrospect of the 1996 disaster where 9 people died in a stome on the South Col. It also makes me appreciate the tenacity of Beck Weathers, the Dallas physician who survived the 1996 storm with severe frostbite. * The film covers the 175 mile hike required from Katmandu to the first base camp. Now climbers just taken in by helicoptor. * The film focuses on the entire expedition team, including the Sherpas, and not just on Hillary and Norgay. It is very truly a team accomplishment ... Hillary and Norgay made it because of the assigned order of the summit assault teams; not because they were any better climbers than the other. * Great shots of - Everest with the blanket of snow blowing off its south face - Dangerous terrain - The difficulty of hiking and working at high altitudes

This is indeed a remarkable story very well told with drama and emotion as well as great respect for the risks taken by all involved. In light of the 1996 disaster on the summit, with the mountain cluttered by unqualified rich people who seem only to be interested in self-glorification, this is a feat that all humanity can take pride in. The script and the music add a great deal to the story and the photography is terrific. It makes me wonder about the nearly lifeless documentary filmed by David Breshears in late May of 1996. Instead of concentrating on the mountain and the terrific feat of getting the equipment up to the increasingly high and potentially fatal altitudes, instead of concentrating on the terrible tragedy ( 8 people losing their lives needlessly) unfolding right in front of them, with Breshears and the whole team acting in a truly unselfish fashion, instead of this, they concentrated on the weak story of a female climber who in no way rated the spotlight. The Conquest of Everest not only shows the terrible sacrifices made to reach the summit, but it teaches the viewers that the mountain must only be attempted by those qualified by years of effort. Anything less is a travesty. This film is a must-see.