Dawn Power Disolver will usually strip even primer off of plastic if the models are left in for a few days. It won't damage plastic (I have left models in it for over a month) but it will weaken super glue bonds (a good way to get models to fall apart if you want to reassemble) and I have heard that it will eat green stuff.

Very nice. Well done.

Wow. I love your wolves. I find the bronze to be an original departure from the more common bright golds and or shadow grey trims. Yet at the same time your unit marking hail back to the 2nd-3rd edition geometric designs. The two tone wolf pelts and tails are well done. Lastly your faces have excellent blending and detail. The wethering is crisp and not over done.

The only thing I am not sold on is the color pallet on the bare bones and skulls that remind me too much of props you can pick up during holoween.

Yeah, really liking your paint job on the wolf. Personally, I prefer the second head as I hate mohawks on northmen.

I was wanting to make some kroot standins for Harliequins but saw that the only way to get kisses was off of the Finecast box set which only nets you 2 I believe. Anyone know of some good plastic GW bits that you could buy off the internet or independant sources of "count-as" kisses?

Same goes for fusion blasters and shuriken pistols.

Hi guys,

I have been reviewing pics of Gargoyles on the Dakka gallery and have noticed that none of the new models have toxic sacs or adrenal glands modeled on the models. I doubt everyone is running them naked.

I was hoping to see from others where they ended up placing these biomorphs? Where did they look/fit best?

Otherwise, are people running Gargoyles without being WYSIWYG at tournies?

Nice, I thought the same thing when I saw that Minoatur Battle Standard in a Bitz website. Actually purchased one off ebay several months ago, though the part is still sitting in my bitz box waiting for me to return to building my wolves.

I also love hyour base. Well done I say.

Ninja'd

MicroArts has also come out with giant wolves:

http://www.shop.microartstudio.com/miniatures-c-36.html

Paulson Games had some wolf riders, but that line has been temporarily discontinued.

http://masq-mini.de/

Ah, too bad I didn't check this post sooner . I actually had something to throw in.

The only GW paints that I have been overly fond have been some of the foundation paints and washes.

I have purchased the Vallejo equivalents (to the GW foundations and washes) since I hate how easily the paint pots dry out...even when dipping paint onto a pallet and immediately closing the lid.

The Valleyo "Heavys" (the alternatives to the GW Foundations) have been dissapointing so far. I tried the Heavy Ochre and the Heavy Red and found them both to be chalky as well as not applying evenly (poor coverage).

I also found the Vallejo Washes to have more pigment compared to the GW washes (at least in the case of thier Blue and Black Washes) and did not spread as well over a model...acting more like an ink than a wash.

He said as good. Vallejo is better . But yeah, I would suggest getting Vallejo and buying from the Warstore as they usually give 10-20% discounts of MSRP. The dropper system that Vallejo has also helps to keep the paint from drying out and allows for ease of placing onto a paint pallet.

The red is slightly modified from the WD Space Hulk Masters Tutorial.

Foundation: Scorched Brown Foundation followed by several thin coats of Heavy Red.

Wash: Several washes of Devlan Mud applied heavily to the recesses.

Mid-Tone: Scarlet Red was painted with a few thin coats

Highlights: Started with a 1:1 thick highlight of Scarlet Red and Blood Red, then a second highlight of Blood Red, a thin highlight of Hot Orange, and finally a very thin highlight of 1:1 Filthy Brown and Hot Orange.

Wash: Baal Red was washed over the areas.

When I want the highlights to be a bit more subtle I use a simple buildup using 3 highlights to get from black to shadow grey: 2:1 Black & Shadow Grey, 1:1 Black and Shadow Grey, and Shadow Grey.

I do most of the basing during the assembly process using the following process:

1) Model is assembled on base (unless I plan on building up the base first)

2) Large rocks, crates, skulls, bits, razor wise are superglued in place around the model.

3) Watered down PVA is applied to the base and sand is sprinkled on top.

4) Another layer of watered down PVA is applied to the sand to seal

5) Model is primed

6) Sand is drybrushed (messy process so best done before painting the figure)

7) Figure is painted

8) Base's details are painted (large rocks, skulls, wire, ect.)

9) Model is sealed with varnish

10) Flocking is done (grass or snow) last.

Bad-Sam wrote:Here is my favorite objective.

Passed out Wolf Priest. Mead...Mmmmm!


-Bad-Sam-

I believe you mean "Mjod"

My vote would be first for black and secondly for tan

I too have had great luck with Super Clean. Used it to disassemble two plastic carnifexes. Though I left them in for a month.

Do note that the super clean needs to get into the cracks to weaken the glue bonds. Sometimes the parts are fitted so tightly together that this doesn't happen.

They are noticeably shorter than the plastic ones. I still use them though. I'll see if I can take some pics tonight.

This gives a blue NM grey:



The armour and sword blade was done using a targeted drybrush technique and started with a base coat of cold grey followed by a very light wash with black (3 parts water: 1 part ink). I then built the base up with progressively with wolf grey followed by ghost grey which where dry brushed on with a very small brush. I then painted a light blue ink glaze over the armour before lining the most extreme edges in white.

The same reason why us artists post our work up on the forum and in the gallery in the first place. In fact the gallery and p&m gallery largely exist for us to share our work and get feedback from the Dakka community. The repeated incidences of voters who grade punitively defeats the purpose of the gallery ranking system and helps Foster a hostile environment.

Maybe we should barry this dead horse rather than to continue to beat it.

I agree on all accounts, Bodworld.

I edited my previous post (middle of the page) as I took some more time to actually flesh out my thoughts and paint a better picture of how I normally "try" to rank with some consistancy.

...Bad puns intended

P.S. When I actually searched for photos ranked in the twos (which you can do), I came up with a vast majority of models being either a solid paint job (5-7) or not painted at all

J-Roc77 wrote:Out of curiosity, how do you guys rate?

5-tabletop, 3 colors no sloppy paint (if it is sloppy like gold paint is on the trim of a shoulder pad and on the shoulder pad itself where the 2 colors meet -1)
6-tabletop with basing
7-Above table top, highlights evident, basing good
8-Obviously above TT, can include drybrushing, wet blending, and or layering more than likely. Also great basing or extra work in the paint can make it here.
9-10, exceptional painting and basing. Crisp lines, well done freehand, complementary basing etc. Shows a mastery of painting techniques that sets it apart from those I would rate an 8.

Not bad breakdown. Now unlike you I will give low scores because again, I view the ratings as a tool. However, to get a bad rating from me it needs to be justified.

I guess I would break my voting down in stages:

Note: Conversions, Interesting Poses, Water effects, Green Stuff Sculpting, Elaborate Bases, ect play absolutely no role in my vote for painting but are covered under the "Coolness Rating".

I also try my best not to let my personal feelings reflect in how I rank models.

Lastly, I often find myself voting on models in which part of it is a 9 while the rest of it...how best to say it...well it seams like the painter got either bored or tired and wanted to move on to something else. Like say an amazingly detailed banner that ranks in IMO in the 9s, but the rest of the model is just base painted with sparse or no highlights (what I would rank as a 5-6). This will likely bump his paint score down a notch or two. Anyways...

NA(0): Model is only primed, not painted, or vast majority is not painted. Again, I think it helps when WIP pics were left disabled. Sometimes really (and I mean gawd awefull blurry pictures will earn this rating).



1-3: Majority of model is painted. Painting is very sloppy with no clean boundary lines maintained, colors overlapping. Color selection is very poor and glaring.


4: Boundary lines are largely maintained with little color overlap. Good color selection.


5: Boundary lines are maintianed with no color overlap, no highlighting or shading. If highlighted, a poor job (shakey hand syndrome) will earn a 5.



6 - 7: Crisp solid highlights and shading; Layering is neither blended or gradual. Models with significant dry brushing (besides fur) can reach this level, but seldom higher due to the grainy texture... and that it is an easier method compared blending



8: Highlights and shades are gradually worked up to create a blended effect



9: Devil is in the free hand details. This exhibits the same blending of highlights as 8 but incorporates significant free hand details like mottled spots on animals, scroll work, glyphs, emblems, scars, ect that are sharp, precise and flavorable.



10: Golden Deamons. Shows a mastery of blended transitions and free hand details.

Gaud looking is what tens are for .

Still, I don't know if the OP was complaining about recieving a 7-8 or if he was complaining about recieving a 0-3. As I said earlier, one person's 7 might reasonably be anther person's 9. However, one person's 2 should never equate to another's 9...doing so completely destroys the usefullness of the ranking system, which inconveniences not only the artist but the community at large.

It is obvious that art is in the eye of the beholder. Neither of us would argue that. What could be a 7 to one person could be a 9 to another.

However, I think any talented painter would be slightly amiff if his work was given a 0 or a 1 without some constructive critisism explaining the low rating. And yes, you are not the first talented artist who has complained of bum scores. Similarily, I often become exasperated when I see a model that is given a painting score of a 8-10...when it is only primed. Ultimately, the ratings are meant to be a tool for both the artist and the gaming community at large. If posters go around giving meaningless rankings than the tool becomes less effective.

Personally, I would prefer if artist's disabled voting on all of thier WIP (which is what I have started doing) as well as post complied pics of thier work shown at different angles rather than single pics of each pose. I just think it would be more usefull if the gallery boards were not clogged up with numerous stages of the same work of art (which has happened in the past). Then if you saw a finished model you particularily liked, you could always click on the owner's gallery and explore his WIP photos or links to his P&M threads.

Also, not all primers are the same. Some tend to dry longer, some go on thicker, some leave a glossy sheen, others can stay tacky for porlonged periods of time.

In general, "Flat" primers tend to do the best for me.

One of the best primers that I have come across is Krylon Rust Tough Enamel Spray Paint (again, the Flat colors) that you can get at True Value or online at Amazon.



This stuff goes on thin and smooth, dries very quickly (like in 20 or so seconds), has no tack, and has very good adhesion. $4-5 for a can which can go a long way... I just used a can to prime over 60 models recently and I still have more to spare.