Wano continues unabated. This go around we get more time with the Akazaya Nine, which is great to my mind as they are critical to the entire arc. While they may be a large contributing factor to the length of the arc, I think the characterization of the Akazaya Nine has on the net been worth the time invested. The coming battle with Kaido feels truly momentous because we have such a close knowledge of all of Oden's retainers.
The showdown between Kanjuro and Kiku is terrific stuff. Kanjuro sending out drawings of headless horsemen is just a cool fantasy concept generally. More specifically, the agony of Kanjuro reveling in the anguish he is causing through betrayal as a testament to his acting skills make it sting that much more. I liked Kiku framing it as Kanjuro speaking ill of her friend and cutting him off before he could besmirch the person she feels she has lost.
The Luffy and Yamato scenes are great too. Any time Luffy is breaking the shackles that bind someone, I'm going ape for it. But the real treasure (other than the friends we made along the way) is the shot of Luffy and Yamato sticking their heads through the ceiling. The way they have their heads clunked together and are bending the board like a Looney Tunes bit, it's one of my favorite comedy beats in the entirety of Wano. I love these too goofballs, and it's heartwarming that they have connected over Ace and are now clowning it up together.
Big Mom returns to the scene in all her glory. I'm a known mark for Big Mom being evil, but the icing on this whole cake is the yokai designs. They are delightfully simple and sadistic little doodle monsters, and further exemplify Oda's penchant for creativity even in the midst of the grand delivery of his biggest arc yet. Just seems like the creativity well is never dry for him.
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