In Search of London by H.V. Morton (1951) 440 p.
The rarest of things for me these days – a book I picked up in a second-hand bookstore (in this case Through the Looking Glass on Brunswick Street) on a whim and purchased after flicking through it a bit despite never having heard of the writer before. Apparently Morton was quite famous for his travel writing in his day, and he’s one of those early 20th century writers who has a breezily readable and even modern style.
I never thought of London in the 1950s as a particularly interesting place – more of a dreary black-and-white city sandwiched in between the dreadful thrill of World War II and the cultural revolution of the 1960s – but what In Search of London made me appreciate was just how much Londoners were still living in the shadow of the war and the Blitz: vast swathes of the city still in ruins, every single person except the smallest children having first-hand experience of war, rationing still in effect, and the general gnawing anxiety of the nascent Cold War hanging like a Sword of Damocles.
I glanced down at the people. Those over the age of forty had lived through two wars and had survived the Blitz. Boys and girls of sixteen and seventeen remembered no other London but a city of jagged ruins, of hob grates perched in the sunlight in shattered walls, of cellars draped with willow-herb and Canadian fleabane. This London, so heartbreaking to me, and still in a sense so incredible, is to them normal and commonplace.
That word “incredible” is useful one; I also recently read for the first time Lee Sandlin’s excellent long-form essay Losing the War, and noted with interest the passage in which he observes repeated phrases in the way contemporary war correspondents described events:
Hersey, like Pyle, calls the sound of a shell in flight “weird.” That word and its cognates recur countless times in American war reporting. The war was weird. Or it was haunted, or spectral, or uncanny, or supernatural. Battle zones were eerie; bomb craters were unearthly; even diplomatic conferences were strange and unreal.
This war – which marked the final end of many eras, and is the foundation stone of the modern world we live in today – feels so distant to us, and so important and so influential, that it’s impossible to see it as anything other than an immutable fact of history. Which of course it is; but that in turn makes it easy to forget that for those who lived it, it was just another case of history happening all the time, and happening around you, and perhaps feeling like something had gone wrong and this level of slaughter and destruction wasn’t supposed to be happening.
That’s probably a trite or stupid observation. But it was one which kept returning to my head throughout this entire book, which runs a pretty even keel between recounting History with a capital H – as Morton takes us through London’s grand parks and palaces, the museums and cathedrals, the execution of King Charles and the wives of Henry VIII, all those things which are basically as distant in time to him as they are to us – and the history of the Blitz, which for him and everyone around him is an ever-present recent memory. You come to see it as he does: how strange it is that this great city, capital of this sceptred isle, on which a foreign enemy had not set foot in a thousand years, could come – in your own lifetime – under powerful bombardment as the sky above became the enemy’s domain. You come to understand his use of that word “incredible” – simply not feasible or believable. In some ways it seems inevitable that all of history should lead up to that point, and in other ways, it still feels like some horrible mistake. Either way, everywhere in The Heart of London one has the sense of an ancient, beautiful, storied and majestic past, which was violently wrenched into the present by the industrial-scale 20th century war machine. Here, for example, Morton recalls a visit he paid to Westminster Abbey during the Blitz:
Returning to ground level, we made our way to the crypt, where I saw an unusual sight. This small stone chamber has a single squat pillar of red sandstone, from the centre of which spring the sixteen ribs that support the floor of the Chapter House above. The vestments for the next day’s services were carefully laid out – beautiful shimmering brocades with threads of gold and silver – and next to them, on four kitchen chairs, were laid out with military precision four firemen’s kits with gumboots, gas-proof clothing, gas masks and shrapnel helmets… As I groped my way to an almost invisible omnibus I thought how many strange things nine centuries have shown to Westminster Abbey. It has seen dead kings lying stripped to the waist in the glow of unbleached tapers; it has seen a Queen of England, Elizabeth Woodville, sitting “alone on the rushes all desolate and amazed,” seeking sanctuary from her enemies; it has seen pomp and pride and piety go marching down the centuries in company with greed and envy and treachery; it has even known one murder. During the War something entirely new happened to it, something that neither king nor abbot could have imagined. We called it A.R.P. or our own unhappy gift to history.
Visiting Piccadilly:
I am sure that few of the thousands of people who see these four streets every day know that their cellars are firmly planted in the London of Charles II. I remember during the last war – and during an air raid – having to go to a building at the Piccadilly end of Dover Street, now split up into dozens of separate shops and businesses, and on the way up my hand fell upon the magnificent broad handrail of the original staircase, standing there still, complete with its fat, twisted, typically Stuart balusters. It was an unexpected treasure to find in a building that gave no hint from the outside that its stairs had been trodden by men who had lived in the London of Charles and Nell Gwyn, Pepys, Evelyn and Wren; and the idea so delighted me that I stood there examining the balusters by the light of a cigarette-lighter until brought to my senses by the sound of an approaching V1.
Visiting the Monument to the Great Fire of London:
It was easy for complacent centuries like the Nineteenth, which knew no overwhelming disasters, to say that the Great Fire was a blessing because it swept out of existence a vast conglomeration of insanitary streets and made way for the cleaner brick-and-stone London of Stuart and later times; but we of today, who have seen so much that we loved go up in flames, are probably in a better position to feel sympathy for those of our forebears who suffered the tragedy of the Great Fire.
Visiting the Chelsea Pensioners:
It might have been thought that a veteran aged a hundred and one, who had survived many a dangerous campaign, would have been fairly safe from the King’s enemies in Chelsea Hospital, but this is an unusually dangerous world, and when a parachute mine floated down in 1941 it killed thirteen veterans, including one who had been born in 1840, the year of Queen Victoria’s marriage.
Watching the Trooping of the Colour:
There is something infinitely touching about military ceremonial, and I thought that an age which has endured two wars, and is talking about a third, ought not to be enjoying, as I and all those around me were enjoying, this bright burst of militarism. But, after all, I reflected, this was not war. War is a poor old lady hiding under the stairs, holding a beloved cat, while a young man thousands of feet above her in the sky, who has no hatred for her at all, who doesn’t even know she exists, is doing his best to kill her and destroy the street in which she lives.
Morton’s direct reflections and experiences bring the war, and the Blitz, and the manner in which London was laid waste, into the frame in a way which reminds us that not a single aspect of human life was unscathed by those great events, and that their direct effects lingered for many years and decades to come. It’s a book which touches on many aspects of London’s history, and he could have written a deeply engrossing book on these subjects at any time – indeed, it’s far from his only book on the city, and while reading this I also read The Heart of London, a collection of his newspaper columns from the early 1920s, which is out of copyright and available free on Project Gutenberg. But writing In Search of London around 1950 stamps it with the indelible mark of the Second World War – or, as Morton would put it, just ‘the War’ – and it’s all the better for it. A fascinating perspective from someone who was there for one of the most important of London’s many stories.














